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Unread 07-11-2014, 06:53 AM
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I would think to go with the same setup for a transom with a bracket of 2 layers of 3/4" ply. The one thing I would do would be to have an aluminum or stainless backer plate made to bolt the bracket to on the inside. Whomever you buy your bracket from should be able to tell you how large of an area you will need to distribute the force across.

I have a piece of aluminum c-channel that the bottom bolts of my motor bolt through. Because of the curvature of the transom I laid out a thick pad of thickened resin, covered it with saran wrap and mashed the channel into it. Once it cured I peeled the saran wrap off and sanded down the resin that squeezed out. This gave me a perfectly flat area that the c-channel rests against.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...storation.html
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Unread 07-11-2014, 01:10 PM
brywheat brywheat is offline
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Thanks

Awesome build by the way. So you used compsite board?
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Unread 07-11-2014, 03:34 PM
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Thanks, was alot of fun. I only used composite core material on the deck and hatches. There is some pretty neat stuff out there that can used on a transom but I wasn't aware of them when I started in on my project.
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Unread 07-11-2014, 08:44 PM
brywheat brywheat is offline
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Tartuffe

For composite board dose it have to be infused vacuum bagged? Or whatever the proper terminology is? Doing research and it looks like awesome stuff. Did you start your rebuild onthe exterior of the hull? How did you flip it? Still have your support? Sorry for so many questions but I really appreciate the help!
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Unread 07-11-2014, 08:47 PM
brywheat brywheat is offline
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The gelcoat is also completely shot. . I've started exterior sanding and hit the glass in a few spots.. grinding down all cracks. Does the gelcoat all need to come off? 2hrs sanding didn't get a lot done.. I'll post some pics in the am
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Unread 07-11-2014, 08:57 PM
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All the gel coat doesn't need to come off.

Going back with paint will be a whole lot easier.
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Unread 07-12-2014, 07:55 PM
brywheat brywheat is offline
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It's in the blood, Picture of my great grandfathers ship building tools. My dad donated them to our local maritime museum.


Pics of the gelcoat, where I have sanded and alot more to go






Next couple pics are for fairing related questions. How thick can fairing be on its own? At what thickness should i be adding CSM?




This last pic has me concerned. this is the top where the outter and inner skin match up. Looks like it's resin starved? recomendations on fixing?





Bored at work


Thanks again for your input & help!!

Last edited by brywheat; 07-12-2014 at 08:06 PM.
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Unread 07-12-2014, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brywheat View Post
Tartuffe

For composite board dose it have to be infused vacuum bagged? Or whatever the proper terminology is? Doing research and it looks like awesome stuff. Did you start your rebuild onthe exterior of the hull? How did you flip it? Still have your support? Sorry for so many questions but I really appreciate the help!
You can use composites the same way you would use traditional wood. I started with the inside first, rebuilt the stringers and transom and then flipped the hull over. I put an I-bolt through the transom drain hole with big washers on the inside and out, tied a rope to the u-bolt where your trailer winch attaches, raised it up like a hammock and rolled her over with a friends help. Boat is pretty light without the cap on it/fuel tank, or floor. You can slide some stout sawhorses underneath and lower it back down.
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Unread 07-12-2014, 09:10 PM
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The pic of the straightedge against the gunnel showing the wave in the hull, that will come out with the construction of the cap. Take it easy with the sanding. Sanding sucks and damn its enticing to go with a grit to actually make some progress like an 80 or even 60. In reality you should probably use a chemical stripper and a 200 grit. The more of that gelcoat you save the better. Gelcoat is a waterproof coating that protects the fiberglass from water intrusion. Its kind of like an insurance policy.

Most of your fairing will be with high-build primers and a longboard. Takes many coats but the lighter the color of the finished product, the more forgiving it is. These boats are not incredibly fair to begin with. I wouldn't be too worried with that. Few sanded coats of high build primers with some longboarding and it is what it is. We can talk about that after you get the structural fixed.
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