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Unread 07-09-2014, 04:45 PM
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tartuffe tartuffe is offline
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One thing I will say about the wood you select, I had my boat at my friends dealership in his pit doing some fine-tuning on the engine. It is incredible the amount of force that is placed on that 1-1/2" of ply and maybe 1/4" of fiberglass. I see guys using everything from the products you mentioned down to bottom-dollar plywood.

Once it is all done, and the 600+ hours invested are to be enjoyed, never worry with if you should have spent the extra money on the wood. Skimp on light packages, pop-up cleats, rod holders and all the bells and whistles as they will end up costing far more than what you spend on the structural components and you can change those out later as they start to show their age.
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Unread 07-10-2014, 02:36 PM
brywheat brywheat is offline
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Tartuffe

That raised another question. If I decided on the full transom/ bracket. . How thick should the transom be? I'll be replacing the stringers to and plan on tabbing in knees which will rise from stringers to the top of the transom. I'm either glassing in insulation for a fish box or making a livewell.
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Unread 07-11-2014, 06:53 AM
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I would think to go with the same setup for a transom with a bracket of 2 layers of 3/4" ply. The one thing I would do would be to have an aluminum or stainless backer plate made to bolt the bracket to on the inside. Whomever you buy your bracket from should be able to tell you how large of an area you will need to distribute the force across.

I have a piece of aluminum c-channel that the bottom bolts of my motor bolt through. Because of the curvature of the transom I laid out a thick pad of thickened resin, covered it with saran wrap and mashed the channel into it. Once it cured I peeled the saran wrap off and sanded down the resin that squeezed out. This gave me a perfectly flat area that the c-channel rests against.

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-...storation.html
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Unread 07-11-2014, 01:10 PM
brywheat brywheat is offline
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Thanks

Awesome build by the way. So you used compsite board?
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Unread 07-11-2014, 03:34 PM
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Thanks, was alot of fun. I only used composite core material on the deck and hatches. There is some pretty neat stuff out there that can used on a transom but I wasn't aware of them when I started in on my project.
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Unread 07-11-2014, 08:44 PM
brywheat brywheat is offline
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Tartuffe

For composite board dose it have to be infused vacuum bagged? Or whatever the proper terminology is? Doing research and it looks like awesome stuff. Did you start your rebuild onthe exterior of the hull? How did you flip it? Still have your support? Sorry for so many questions but I really appreciate the help!
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Unread 07-11-2014, 08:47 PM
brywheat brywheat is offline
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The gelcoat is also completely shot. . I've started exterior sanding and hit the glass in a few spots.. grinding down all cracks. Does the gelcoat all need to come off? 2hrs sanding didn't get a lot done.. I'll post some pics in the am
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Unread 07-12-2014, 08:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brywheat View Post
Tartuffe

For composite board dose it have to be infused vacuum bagged? Or whatever the proper terminology is? Doing research and it looks like awesome stuff. Did you start your rebuild onthe exterior of the hull? How did you flip it? Still have your support? Sorry for so many questions but I really appreciate the help!
You can use composites the same way you would use traditional wood. I started with the inside first, rebuilt the stringers and transom and then flipped the hull over. I put an I-bolt through the transom drain hole with big washers on the inside and out, tied a rope to the u-bolt where your trailer winch attaches, raised it up like a hammock and rolled her over with a friends help. Boat is pretty light without the cap on it/fuel tank, or floor. You can slide some stout sawhorses underneath and lower it back down.
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