need some guidance. stringers & transom

[brywheat]

Thanks Dan!!
Yeah most of my friends say im crazy to spend this much rebuilding an old boat.

But..
1. I love the Hull & it was free
2. I want to build this rock solid and I know it will be safe, Ill know every inch of the boat and Ill be able to test my skills.
3. nothing nice comes easy

Think im going for option 3 too Dan. However alot of the woven roven attaching the orginal stringers will need replacing, some bubble spots even delaminated on the hull. I also will be raising the floor, I think,???
She wont stay sitting in the drink over night unless camping and I will also be installing 3 blidge pumps. But I like a self bailing deck on those rainy rockfishing days

Thanks again Dan!

Ill restart my build thread here

[bradford]

Dan, just want to say again that old girl is a beauty!

[tartuffe]

I used 2 layers of 3/4" marine ply.

First layer: In order to get that bend I cut 2 score lines about 3/8" deep at an angle, makes conforming to the hull much easier.

The score lines are on the side that faces the bow, not the side that will attach to the existing transom skin If you look closely at the transom you will see how the curve in the transom comes up at about a 60 degree angle on both sides about a foot on either side of the drain plug hole. Your score lines should follow that line.

I hope this makes sense, have plenty of clamps available.

Do a couple of test fits and try a dry clamping run.

When you are ready to do it for real, trowel a heavy layer of thickened resin on the existing transom skin and trowel a layer on the ply that will touch the transom skin and sandwich the thickened resin to the skin, clamp it and leave it overnight.

Second layer doesn't need score lines, again put thickened resin on layer you already clamped the prior night as well as the layer you are about to place. Sandwich together and clamp, lots of clamps.

I made the mistake once spreading a heavy layer of unthickened resin on the wood prior to troweling out the resin, the thickened resin won't stick if you do that and will ooze off the wood. You can use a very light layer of unthickened resin but don't get carried away.

[brywheat]

Thanks Tartuffe!!

Few other transom questions for you...
How thick do you think it needs to be to support a bracket?
Only the first piece gets scored correct?

Thanks a million, everyone on this site is great with great info

Loving the V20 community!

[brywheat]

Here are some pics..
Admin feel free to delete the orginial thread I started in the General Forum

Thanks again for all advice, Im sure I'll need more

[tartuffe]

Yes only score the first layer, once it is fully adhered to the outer skin it will be strong enough to torque that next layer in place. Even with all that torque it still will not fit absolutely snug against your first layer, that is where all that thickened resin you troweled on comes in handy.

I used that blue styrofoam board to cut my templates, it works really well.

There is a trade off regarding how snug you want the wood to come to your gunnels in the corners of your transom. I left enough room that I could easily get the thickened resin all the way into the corners. I left about an inch. It was very easy to make sure I had zero gaps in my corners but it did eat up ALOT of thickened resin.

Regarding brackets, I have no experience so I can't comment there. Brackets are sexy as hell but I opted not to put one on when I did my restore. It just didn't match my needs for the boat.

[brywheat]

Thanks again Tartuffe

Off the next two days, hopfully be able to get to Harbor marine and pick up some supplies.

What kind of ply did you use Tartuffe?
Im thinking of going cheap and using Fir, however Ive been told Okume BS1088 Joubert, Meranti BS1088, or Meranti BS6566, are the have trade-offs for the cost. The BS6566 I've been told is best for a structural/ resin fiberglass bonding and it will bend easier to match the transom curve and is stronger, the $20 etrxa per piece may be worth the trade-off.
What would you use??