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Unread 07-02-2014, 09:16 PM
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http://youtu.be/5d3qie3jbHk
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1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD
1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s
2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20

Last edited by bradford; 07-02-2014 at 09:39 PM.
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Unread 07-03-2014, 02:19 PM
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Thats what the worst ones look like! Can you just wash that stuff off?
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1975 Wellcraft V20 Steplift with 1979 Evinrude 150. Newly rebuilt dual axle trailer. Boat is in a slip behind Harbor Island on San Diego Harbor.
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Unread 07-03-2014, 05:59 PM
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How do you embed those images? I tried to copy images from my computer and paste them into a post and it rejects them for being too large. When I reduced the size it gave a batch of machine language.

Larry
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1975 Wellcraft V20 Steplift with 1979 Evinrude 150. Newly rebuilt dual axle trailer. Boat is in a slip behind Harbor Island on San Diego Harbor.
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Unread 07-03-2014, 06:32 PM
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Originally you said your boat was not painted, hence the concern.
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1999 Wellcraft 22WA-200 Ocean Runner
1982 Grady White Tarpon 190-110 Evinrude-Sold
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Unread 07-03-2014, 08:25 PM
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Originally you said your boat was not painted, hence the concern.
Thanks. I really don't know. I got if after it had sat in a field for 14 years. It was obviously an ocean fishing boat. It had dozens of rod-holders and a big bait tank, an old fish finder, and ship-to-shore radio. The bottom was blue after I power-washed all the oxidation off. But who knows what or if any bottom paint was on there?

I really had little choice but to install it in a Marina after I put it in and then the trailer fell apart! And trying to use if from there all Summer seemed like a good option since there is NO CHANCE that any marine mechanic would work on it for me. The carbs need to be rebuilt. They told me that, but then they told me they have a months-long backlog of work. So what is an owner to do? I just add carb cleaner to the fuel and go!

Everything is a trade-off, a risk we take. If it blows up, I will remember that I got the boat, motor, and trailer for $100!

Larry
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1975 Wellcraft V20 Steplift with 1979 Evinrude 150. Newly rebuilt dual axle trailer. Boat is in a slip behind Harbor Island on San Diego Harbor.
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Unread 07-03-2014, 11:02 PM
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Thanks. I really don't know. I got if after it had sat in a field for 14 years. It was obviously an ocean fishing boat. It had dozens of rod-holders and a big bait tank, an old fish finder, and ship-to-shore radio. The bottom was blue after I power-washed all the oxidation off. But who knows what or if any bottom paint was on there?

I really had little choice but to install it in a Marina after I put it in and then the trailer fell apart! And trying to use if from there all Summer seemed like a good option since there is NO CHANCE that any marine mechanic would work on it for me. The carbs need to be rebuilt. They told me that, but then they told me they have a months-long backlog of work. So what is an owner to do? I just add carb cleaner to the fuel and go!

Everything is a trade-off, a risk we take. If it blows up, I will remember that I got the boat, motor, and trailer for $100!

Larry
Well, when becoming an owner of a vintage boat, you wind up taking on a tremendous amount of the work yourself. I purchased a 1977 V20 Cuddy, with a 1971 Mercury 1350 outboard about two weeks ago. There's a thread here that I started under "Repairs" that I will wind up doing myself.

Just to get the motor to where I'm comfortable, I'll be rebuilding the water pump, fuel pumps and carbs. Doing a full tune-up, new plug wires and distributer parts, replace any bad wiring and all the seals (and possibly bearings) in the lower unit. Then, I'll be rebuilding the controls and replacing the wiring.
All this for a boat that was in the water last year and fished. Some here may think its a bit of overkill, but I've seen some things in the way that the boat was maintained (or not) that make me scratch my head. I prefer to minimize some of the problems that I may have inherited.

To take a vessel that has "sat in a field for 14 years" and "add carb cleaner to the fuel and go" takes a level of confidence in the PO that I don't possess. Great boating to you!
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1977 Wellcraft V20 Step OB cuddy. 1971 1350 Merc

"Any damn fool can navigate the world sober. It takes a really good sailor to do it drunk."
- Sir Francis Chichester
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Unread 07-04-2014, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by spoggy View Post
Well, when becoming an owner of a vintage boat, you wind up taking on a tremendous amount of the work yourself. I purchased a 1977 V20 Cuddy, with a 1971 Mercury 1350 outboard about two weeks ago. There's a thread here that I started under "Repairs" that I will wind up doing myself.

Just to get the motor to where I'm comfortable, I'll be rebuilding the water pump, fuel pumps and carbs. Doing a full tune-up, new plug wires and distributer parts, replace any bad wiring and all the seals (and possibly bearings) in the lower unit. Then, I'll be rebuilding the controls and replacing the wiring.
All this for a boat that was in the water last year and fished. Some here may think its a bit of overkill, but I've seen some things in the way that the boat was maintained (or not) that make me scratch my head. I prefer to minimize some of the problems that I may have inherited.

To take a vessel that has "sat in a field for 14 years" and "add carb cleaner to the fuel and go" takes a level of confidence in the PO that I don't possess. Great boating to you!
Well, remember that I hired a certified outboard mechanic to come here and start the engine and completely check it out, do a formal evaluation. He recorded the cylinder pressures, tilt pump output, generator output, and much else. The numbers indicated a recent overhaul of the powerhead before it was stored all those years. It had NEW motor compression. It idled slightly rough, hence his advice to have the carbs rebuilt at the end of the season and to add fuel conditioner in the mean time, just run it a few dozen+ hours. He rebuilt the water pump and serviced the lower unit.

He checked the controls and steering and found them sound. I replaced the starter switch because the original key had been misplaced. When inside the remote unit I found it clean and sound mechanically. I rewired the boat almost completely. I added a new fuse panel and ran wires from the new fuel level senders to the dashboard. I added a second battery and a battery selector switch.

And I removed and flushed out the two saddle fuel tanks. I replaced all the fuel hose and the tank selector valve. I added a big water separator/filter and a new squeeze bulb and connector.

Then he and I replaced ALL the rubber fuel hoses between carbs and fuel pump. We replaced every connector and every hose clamp tie.

So it wasn't just blind trust when I decided to put it in a Marina for the Summer. I really believe it will run well. It does seem to be idling better each time I take it out.

He said an interesting thing about that old engine, "2-cycle engines are amazing, they will run almost regardless of anything!" And a 6-cylinder engine can bring you in when several cylinders drop out.

I also have BOATUS insurance. Free tow if I get stuck out there on the harbor somewhere!

And now I have my trailer back, and he had to essentially keep the open steel channel and replace everything else! You name a trailer part and mine is new, not just new, but the best heavy-duty option. New longer tongue, new springs, new axles, new fenders, new bearings and one new hub because the broken lug bolt couldn't be removed. New hitch, new jack on a swivel wheel, new winch, new safety chains, new safety chain to the boat eye, new bunks, new rollers, new led lights that can be submerged without concern. And of course the whole thing painted with the best epoxy paint baked on. Not galvanized, but infinitely better than most other steel trailers, especially the crap from Ensenada, ha. Total rebuild cost: $3000! But he said the trailer could be sold for $3500+ tomorrow morning-- It is "Henry Trailers" here in El Cajon, CA. He has the best reputation in the area by far. Not cheap, but super high quality. Resale value!

So now my trailer is worth more than boat and motor together!

I'll take some photos and try to throw them up for everyone to see.

Larry
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1975 Wellcraft V20 Steplift with 1979 Evinrude 150. Newly rebuilt dual axle trailer. Boat is in a slip behind Harbor Island on San Diego Harbor.

Last edited by Larryrsf; 07-04-2014 at 04:48 PM.
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  #8  
Unread 07-04-2014, 06:28 PM
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Ya know Larry.... If you are gonna post without all the details it really isn't nice to dump all over someone when the reply to what the very little info you gave made it sound like.....

People are trying to help you and you are acting like they are idiots.

Just my .02
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  #9  
Unread 07-06-2014, 11:03 PM
spoggy spoggy is offline
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Originally Posted by Larryrsf View Post
Well, remember that I hired a certified outboard mechanic to come here and start the engine and completely check it out, do a formal evaluation. He recorded the cylinder pressures, tilt pump output, generator output, and much else. The numbers indicated a recent overhaul of the powerhead before it was stored all those years. It had NEW motor compression. It idled slightly rough, hence his advice to have the carbs rebuilt at the end of the season and to add fuel conditioner in the mean time, just run it a few dozen+ hours. He rebuilt the water pump and serviced the lower unit.

He checked the controls and steering and found them sound. I replaced the starter switch because the original key had been misplaced. When inside the remote unit I found it clean and sound mechanically. I rewired the boat almost completely. I added a new fuse panel and ran wires from the new fuel level senders to the dashboard. I added a second battery and a battery selector switch.

And I removed and flushed out the two saddle fuel tanks. I replaced all the fuel hose and the tank selector valve. I added a big water separator/filter and a new squeeze bulb and connector.

Then he and I replaced ALL the rubber fuel hoses between carbs and fuel pump. We replaced every connector and every hose clamp tie.

So it wasn't just blind trust when I decided to put it in a Marina for the Summer. I really believe it will run well. It does seem to be idling better each time I take it out.

He said an interesting thing about that old engine, "2-cycle engines are amazing, they will run almost regardless of anything!" And a 6-cylinder engine can bring you in when several cylinders drop out.

I also have BOATUS insurance. Free tow if I get stuck out there on the harbor somewhere!

And now I have my trailer back, and he had to essentially keep the open steel channel and replace everything else! You name a trailer part and mine is new, not just new, but the best heavy-duty option. New longer tongue, new springs, new axles, new fenders, new bearings and one new hub because the broken lug bolt couldn't be removed. New hitch, new jack on a swivel wheel, new winch, new safety chains, new safety chain to the boat eye, new bunks, new rollers, new led lights that can be submerged without concern. And of course the whole thing painted with the best epoxy paint baked on. Not galvanized, but infinitely better than most other steel trailers, especially the crap from Ensenada, ha. Total rebuild cost: $3000! But he said the trailer could be sold for $3500+ tomorrow morning-- It is "Henry Trailers" here in El Cajon, CA. He has the best reputation in the area by far. Not cheap, but super high quality. Resale value!

So now my trailer is worth more than boat and motor together!

I'll take some photos and try to throw them up for everyone to see.

Larry
Well...it appears I've started some sort of s**tstorm here without meaning to. Larry, I had seen a couple of other posts by you here, and in none of them did I see the level of detail that you presented in your response here. I apologize for not having seen anything else and was just responding to your original post.

Having said that, I still believe a great many "issues" that crop up in vintage boats are best handled by the owner. At least for me, part of the fun of this is the ability to "do it myself". I have a pretty good working understanding of how these things are put together, and though not as practical as others, I stand by my ability to get through a "tough spot" while out on the lake if need be. I stand by my suggestion that you take the time to learn how to do some of these things yourself, especially in light of your discovery about mechanics, they're never around when you need them. You'll find that you'll be on the water more if some repairs can be picked up by you.

I think you'll also see that there's a ton of experience, capability levels and ages here that play into a pretty diverse and knowledgeable crowd. Myself, 20 years as a millwright doing machine installation and repair. I can read prints an twist wrenches with the best of them. I was sole owner of a boat maintenance business while in my 20's, did that for about 10 years. Delivered boats via water and was a licensed captain to 160 tons. Have done the entire Great Lakes system, St Lawrence, Welland canal, Soo Locks, Erie Canal, Hudson River, inter coastal from Maine to Florida, C&D bays, Chicago Ship, Mississippi, Gulf coast, Panama Canal, Pacific Central America and Baja all the way to San Francisco. I don't claim to know everything, that's why I'm here asking questions.

I apologize if I offended you, that wasn't my intent. I only responded to what I had read, and I have yet to figure out how to reply to information I'm not privy to.

Best of luck.
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-Steve

"Oar Chasm!"
1977 Wellcraft V20 Step OB cuddy. 1971 1350 Merc

"Any damn fool can navigate the world sober. It takes a really good sailor to do it drunk."
- Sir Francis Chichester
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