many questions about repairing/replacing stringers

[carboncow]

Thanks Destroyer...I'm going to guess this is the same thing as the industrial d-limer I user her at work that is also a mild acid. It's amazing for cleaning the hull just like any over priced boat cleaner I've used (with acid) but it doesn't do much to those decal adhesives!

[Destroyer]

Well, you have three choices, you can use Oxalic acid or Muriatic acid (Muriatic acid is another name for hydrochloric acid) They are not delimers, although they might work for that use. Muriatic acid is used to etch concrete after all, so I'm sure it attacks lime. Or you can use Marykate. The three main ingredients in it are Muriatic acid, Oxalic acid and Phosphoric acid. Again, I cannot promise you that they will remove the adhesive residue, but I can speak from experience and tell you that it it has never failed to remove everything from my boats hull. rust stains, oil stains, scum, marine growth, creosote rub marks, you name it, it's removed it and it does it in a hurry. And of course you can also try Goo Gone (available in just about any home center store). or (no, I'm not making this up) Peanut butter. My wife uses it all the time to remove the sticky goo left on an item after she removes a sticker or label from something she's bought.... and damn if it doesn't work.

[carboncow]

How do you feel about acetone on the gelcoat since it's doing the best? Any first hand knowledge or experience?

Tried goo gone, west marine adhesive remover as well as the industrial citrus cleaner we use for adhesives at work. Will consider the difference acid but just went out and tested the peanut butter...I think that's best left to price labels on the bottom of dishes!!

[Striper80]

When I painted my outboard cowling I used 3m wood grain adhesive remover. It came in an aresol. Acetone will evaporate too fast. There's also a 3m general adhesive remover that should work. I hope that what's left is the glue and not staining from the eraser wheel. Sometimes they can heat up and burn the Gelcoat.

[carboncow]

Thanks for the input...

The acetone works great...but I just don't know what damage it can do. By evap'ing to quick do you mean it's gone before it can do the work?

I'll have a look for the other products...

If you burn gel coat it's pretty obvious even to an untrained eye. This is clearly left over decal and glue.

[Striper80]

Originally Posted by carboncow

Thanks for the input...

The acetone works great...but I just don't know what damage it can do. By evap'ing to quick do you mean it's gone before it can do the work?

I'll have a look for the other products...

If you burn gel coat it's pretty obvious even to an untrained eye. This is clearly left over decal and glue.

Exactly. I work as an auto painter and what we normally use is enamel reducer. I was talking to a guy I work with and he recommended naptha. It's available at Home Depot and he said it's similar.

[carboncow]

OK, it was a long Sunday but the floor is in and we peanut buttered all the gaps. As you can see from the photos we created a "lip" for the new floor to sit on top of as it touches the permitter of the old floor. We took 2x4 and resined them and glued/wood deck screwed them into the glass and then the new floor on top of them. We had a couple high and low spots on the stringers & bulkheads and knocked down and built up and with everything screwed in the floor is unbelievably strong...if anyone has a baby elephant we could test it.

We used cabasol (sp?) and 1/4" chopped strand with our epoxy resin to fill the gaps and we'll grind things down on Tuesday (two days). Then it's time to put down one layer of glass and epoxy resin on the deck...and the floor is done!

Next steps include restoring the hull and prepping the interior for a Line-X type product.