many questions about repairing/replacing stringers

[tartuffe]

Man oh man, been where you are:
http://wellcraftv20.com/community/sh...center+console

All in all good advice you are getting. I would plan to tab in with more than 1 layer of tape. You will find that a layer of 1708 cured out is flexible, around 3 layers you get rid of most of the flex. Your peanut butter should have schopped strand in it as well. Straight resin and cabosil mixed is pretty brittle even though epoxy resin has more flex than polyester.

Make sure before you get started you have lots of acetone, rags, a box of those medical gloves (nitrile/latex) lots of measuring cups and stir sticks

You asked about original glass prep; I used a 4" grinder with 60 grit disks.Scuffed an area about 1' wide the entire length of the stringer, followed by vacuum then wipe down with alcohol. Alcohol evaporates much quicker than acetone. Acetone leaves behind a bit more residue so I wouldn't recommend it for prep work.

When putting in your fillets on your stringers, it works well to put your PB mix in a 1 gal. ziplock bag with the corner cut out to use like a cake decorating bag. Lay the bead and use the end of a spoon give you a nice uniform radius.

Do at least your first layer of tabbing when you do your fillets.

Do not try to do any fiberglass wet-out without a resin roller. I bought several but my favorite by far was my 2.5" length and 3/8 diameter roller, used it almost exclusively.

Also as far as 1708, I liked the 45/45 thread. As far as laying out the glass and wetting out, the direction of the stiching is everything. Stiching running parallel to the bend work much better than perpendicular.

[cterrebonne]

Originally Posted by tartuffe

Man oh man, been where you are:
http://wellcraftv20.com/community/sh...center+console

All in all good advice you are getting. I would plan to tab in with more than 1 layer of tape. You will find that a layer of 1708 cured out is flexible, around 3 layers you get rid of most of the flex. Your peanut butter should have schopped strand in it as well. Straight resin and cabosil mixed is pretty brittle even though epoxy resin has more flex than polyester.

Make sure before you get started you have lots of acetone, rags, a box of those medical gloves (nitrile/latex) lots of measuring cups and stir sticks

You asked about original glass prep; I used a 4" grinder with 60 grit disks.Scuffed an area about 1' wide the entire length of the stringer, followed by vacuum then wipe down with alcohol. Alcohol evaporates much quicker than acetone. Acetone leaves behind a bit more residue so I wouldn't recommend it for prep work.

When putting in your fillets on your stringers, it works well to put your PB mix in a 1 gal. ziplock bag with the corner cut out to use like a cake decorating bag. Lay the bead and use the end of a spoon give you a nice uniform radius.

Do at least your first layer of tabbing when you do your fillets.

Do not try to do any fiberglass wet-out without a resin roller. I bought several but my favorite by far was my 2.5" length and 3/8 diameter roller, used it almost exclusively.

Also as far as 1708, I liked the 45/45 thread. As far as laying out the glass and wetting out, the direction of the stiching is everything. Stiching running parallel to the bend work much better than perpendicular.

Tartuffe, Do you know about how many hours it took you to put in the stringers and bulkheads?

[tartuffe]

I would say realistically around 60 hours cutting and shaping wood, bevels for the scab pieces, routing the tops of the stringers, and glassing in but thats not counting the 100 hours I stared at it. Measuring was the worst part and figuring out how everything was going to go together.



It was fun though once I started to view it as a hobby rather than a job.

[cterrebonne]

Originally Posted by tartuffe

I would say realistically around 60 hours cutting and shaping wood, bevels for the scab pieces, routing the tops of the stringers, and glassing in but thats not counting the 100 hours I stared at it. Measuring was the worst part and figuring out how everything was going to go together.



It was fun though once I started to view it as a hobby rather than a job.

thanks for the estimate. I figured there would be a lot of time involved. I am trying to gauge whether or not I will have enough time to have my boat floatable before june. That darn transom of mine ended up taking so much more time than what I anticipated and I am still not done with it. I might have to start working on my rig in the evenings also.

Thanks again.

[tartuffe]

One thing I forgot to add in my post and that is in regard to the structural integrity of what you are doing.

The fiberglass hull without stringers or cross members/bulkheads is very flexible. When you go over a wake or wave and smack one square on the backside and your teeth rattle your boat absorbed alot of force. The areas furthest from the internal structure flex the most while those at the substructure do not flex at all. While not always teeth rattling, this force and flex happens constantly.

Your goal is to gradually transition that flex to the inflexible point over as large a distance as possible. Multiple layers of tabbing starting 6" from the stringer, then 4", then 2", to your filet disperse the flex and prevent what are referred to as hard spots. Its very important.

[carboncow]

Way over due for some updates and photos...but I have questions...so I'm back.

We have the new stringers in and couldn't be happier. We left the old bulkheads and although some are a bit damp the wood will not touch the new stringers...we are yet to tab them to one another.

Limber holes are drilled thru the stringers and we are using 3M 4200 to coat them. We've applied one coat and will apply a 2nd coat and bed in the gray PVC piping to hopefully get a tight fit. We had no 5200 handy and couldn't wait...so hopefully the 4200 is sufficient or our hard work may be in vein!

Question: What type of paint can be used to cover the bilge and paint a few areas of the hull interior? I'm assuming we can just wipe with acetone and some type of epoxy paint...but we are clueless so any specifics would be helpful. Just trying to pretty it up on a budget.

Question: I've also included a shot of the transom which (luckily) was the only thing on the boat that wasn't soft. As you look at the attached photo you'll see the gel coat is cracking and seperated from some parts of the inside of the transom. We are going to custom bend an aluminium plate to pretty up this area. Any suggestions if we should seal/fill that crack up gel coat here?

[tartuffe]

Dont prep painted areas with acetone, it leaves a residue. Bilge areas need a paint meant for standing water, if not it will blister and peel after a week of water in your bilge. I used interlux performance vc in my bilge, it works well. Rustoleum makes a topside paint, never used it but heard good things.

Are you going to put foam back in your boat? I would if I were you.

Regarding covering up cracked gel coat, need pics.

[carboncow]

Originally Posted by tartuffe

Are you going to put foam back in your boat? I would if I were you.

Regarding covering up cracked gel coat, need pics.

Thanks for your comments...what is your priority for the foam as I've seen several posts say they are not doing it?

If you look at the last photo and click on it in detail you'll see the gelcoat cracks on the dirty (inside) of the transom around the engine area. Suggestions?