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#1
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Quote:
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Shawn Feller Lake Erie Ohio 1983 Tiara 3100 Convertible Crusader 454 370HPx2 1988 Wellcraft V20 Center Console 1991 Yamaha 225HP V20 Build Gallery Photos Baypoint Marina and Summer Fun |
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#2
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i kept mine flush with the existing deck.
one trick i did learn, after you get your lip around the cavity, make a template out of thin strips of 2x4 cut edgewise (maybe 1/8 " thick) and fastened together with a hot glue gun. you can get a very exact fit and it transfers to your ply very easily. this will cut down on the voids between old deck & new |
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#3
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1708 does not bend very good so I butted the 1708 and used CSM to bend around corners.
Today's accomplishments: Spent all day glassing in stringers, took more time than I thought but I am happy with the results. Inserted 3/4" A/C plywood (resin coated) into existing stringers and bulk heads (tops cut off, wood removed and cleaned) Needed to add some putty filler on top as I left the plywood a little short. This allowed me to cap off the tops and make a nice finish. Added 6" tab of 1708 to the bottoms of all stringers and bulk heads. Added 10" 1708 over top of the 6". Capped the tops of the stringers with CSM with to layers of 10" This is all I got to today. I still need to add two layers of 10" CSM over top of the 1708 on the bottom. I can't believe how strong my stringers are now. I am almost ready for the floor which will be 3/4" A/C or 3/4" birch from Lowes. About the same price. Not sure if birch is much heaver or not. I will be going over the 3/4" floor with two layers of CSM on both sides. This should give the boat a very solid feeling. I am decided not to add any foam. Leaving everything able to drain and breath. |
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#4
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Although the birch has very few voids I have read it does not take resin well,the resin does not soak into the wood and create a good bond. I have not tested this myself though.
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73 v20 cuddy inline 6 |
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