Possible Modification Project?

[randlemanboater]

Sorry for asking that question about Cuddys Slowduk...I didn't mean to confuse the subject.

Thanks for the replies about my question guys...figured there was something there.

Back to your question Slowduk, I would think the batteries would be happier with option 1...seems like they would take a pounding way up front.

Good looking crew you got goin there BTW.

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by randlemanboater

Sorry for asking that question about Cuddys Slowduk...I didn't mean to confuse the subject.

Thanks for the replies about my question guys...figured there was something there.

Back to your question Slowduk, I would think the batteries would be happier with option 1...seems like they would take a pounding way up front.

Good looking crew you got goin there BTW.

I completely agree. Option one is the preferred area.

Since you have a different deck layout than most of us (dual consoles, no step down) I'll fight my way out thru the snow to my boat tomorrow and measure back from the bow to where my deck hatch is. I'm fairly certain that even though the decks may be different, the underside where the bulkheads and stringers are is pretty much the same on all of the V's. That measurement should tell you where to make your cut for the battery placement.

Even though you could figure out exactly what gauge wire to to run from the engine to the batteries, don't over-think it. Most car battery applications use 4 gauge wire for their leads, and truthfully you could probably use that with zero problems. But just to be safe, use 1/0 AWG copper wire and you'll be fine. It's rated for 300 amps at up to 19 feet, which is roughly twice the distance than you'll be going. For your primary wires they will do the job nicely, and then, for your secondary wire feed to your panel for your electronics I'd use 4 gauge, and from there I'd use whatever came with the equipment. Yes, you can safely use a smaller gauge primary wire, but since the larger the wire the less the resistance, using 1/0 is probably overkill but you won't get into trouble using it. Oh, and if you can find it, use marine rated tinned pure copper wire. More overkill, but well worth the few extra bucks years from now.

[SLOWDUK]

Destroyer,

Please do not go to any trouble slogging through the snow to take measurements.

I guess that I am fortunate in that there is a already hatched compartment beneath the helm sufficient in size to house a dual battery set up. And when I say hatched I mean it has a door. This is not a horizontal hatch in the deck. It is a tinted clear upright door allowing access to the space below the helm.

The picture below shows the hatch on the passenger side for a storage compartment beneath the "glove box". To orient yourself, the right side of the picture is the walkway through the windscreen to the bow. To the left out of the picture is the passenger seat.



I can mount the batteries directly to the deck surface beneath the helm in this compartment.

Easy Pesy!

Thanks Again for the guidance, Slow

[SLOWDUK]

I did not intend to snap the picture in the post above. I was taking pictures of my grandkids (crew) in the bow while I was driving and inadvertently snapped a picture of the area in front of the passenger seat.




The gray surface in the lower left and right corners is the boat's deck. The sealed hatch you see in the lower left of the picture is the hatch over the fuel tank. The off white structure in the middle with the fire extinguisher on the right and the glove box on top is the passenger's console. The four screws fasten the console to the deck and the sloped area forward of those screws is the footrest for the passenger. The dark panel that I have circled in red is the hatch with a clasp on the right. There is an identical hatch and compartment in the helm's console.

I can mount the batteries directly to the deck surface beneath the helm in this compartment.

Easy Pesy!

Thanks Again for the guidance, Slow