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#1
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I have seen what you are describing on some aluminum "Jon" style boats with larger 4 strokes on them.
I addressed the issue on my boat with stoppers for the floor drains (just remember to pull them when it rains). I have a 20" transom and have never had a wave come into the boat from the rear, into the splashwell yes, but not all the way into the boat. I would think if you move some weight forward and use stoppers, the extra floatation would not be needed. But, if you do add floatation, you only need to make up for about 220 to 250 pounds, 630# (your motor) minus say 410# (my motor) or 380# (old school 2 smoke). Just my $.02.
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*************************************** Stay Safe! Sold - 1984 V-20 Cuddy with a 2003 Johnson 140 hp gas sippin 4-stroke. 1995 Ranger 250C with a 2015 Suzuki 300 hp 4-stroke. |
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#2
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Thanks to everyone who took the time to comment.
Axespino’s suggestion to close off the motor well in front of the engine is a good one that the previous owner already incorporated. He mounted a piece of starboard about 8” tall with quick release clasps to separate the engine well from the cockpit. It’s not waterproof, but will inhibit a wave that enters the motor well from entering the cockpit. Based on your advice, I went out to the boat today to take a closer look and take additional measurements. As the most common advice was to move weight forward, I surveyed the possibilities. Currently, the batteries are installed in a compartment on the starboard side about one to two feet forward of the transom. On this dual console configuration, there are compartments port and starboard at the feet of the passenger and helm stations suitable in size for a dual battery installation. There is also a central compartment at the very bow of the boat that two batteries could fit in. Obviously, the most forward option is best for weight distribution, but does the longer cable run (approximately 25’) have negative impacts on the starter and charging systems? If the cable run has minimal negative effects, I will move the batteries to the bow. If a shorter cable run is better, I’ll move them to the amidships position at the base of the helm. Port side at the base of the passenger station would be better for left and right balance, but the helm location is easier because all of the other electrical, steering, and fuel lines run along the starboard side. Let me know what you all think about the cable run issue. As moving the batteries forward is the simplest and most inexpensive option, I will try that first and reassess the situation. Thanks again for the assist and I’ll report back on the results. Take Care, Slow |
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#3
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Thanks to everyone who took the time to comment.
Axespino’s suggestion to close off the motor well in front of the engine is a good one that the previous owner already incorporated. He mounted a piece of starboard about 8” tall with quick release clasps to separate the engine well from the cockpit. It’s not waterproof, but will inhibit a wave that enters the motor well from entering the cockpit. Based on your advice, I went out to the boat today to take a closer look and take additional measurements. As the most common advice was to move weight forward, I surveyed the possibilities. Currently, the batteries are installed in a compartment on the starboard side about one to two feet forward of the transom. On this dual console configuration, there are compartments port and starboard at the feet of the passenger and helm stations suitable in size for a dual battery installation. There is also a central compartment at the very bow of the boat that two batteries could fit in. Obviously, the most forward option is best for weight distribution, but does the longer cable run (approximately 25’) have negative impacts on the starter and charging systems? If the cable run has minimal negative effects, I will move the batteries to the bow. If a shorter cable run is better, I’ll move them to the amidships position at the base of the helm. Port side at the base of the passenger station would be better for left and right balance, but the helm location is easier because all of the other electrical, steering, and fuel lines run along the starboard side. Let me know what you all think about the cable run issue. As moving the batteries forward is the simplest and most inexpensive option, I will try that first and reassess the situation. Thanks again for the assist and I’ll report back on the results. Take Care, Slow |
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#4
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test
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#5
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Slowduk I moved my batteries to a custom in deck hatch right before the cabin entrance on my cuddy. I used 1 gauge cables. I think putting them a little closer to mid-ship is better in that you don't have SO much dead weight in the bow, they won't get as much of a beating from the waves, and aren't going to get as wet with pulling in wet anchors and rode.
__________________
1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 |
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#6
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Quote:
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
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#7
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Just curious...could you cut the access hole in the cabin?
Like if you were standing in the cabin well facing toward the transom, cut into the wall at your feet? Or is there something structural between there and the void?
__________________
*************************************** Stay Safe! Sold - 1984 V-20 Cuddy with a 2003 Johnson 140 hp gas sippin 4-stroke. 1995 Ranger 250C with a 2015 Suzuki 300 hp 4-stroke. |
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