does a I/O have a thermostat

[THEFERMANATOR]

That impeller got run dry is what did it in. You can tell by the wear on it as age tends to just lay the vanes over whereas running it dry burns them off. And put a 140 t-stat back in it since it is a raw water cooled engine. You could do a 160, but the 140 seems to work better and reduce temp spikes from my experience.

[spareparts]

Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR

That impeller got run dry is what did it in. You can tell by the wear on it as age tends to just lay the vanes over whereas running it dry burns them off. And put a 140 t-stat back in it since it is a raw water cooled engine. You could do a 160, but the 140 seems to work better and reduce temp spikes from my experience.

what he said!

take a long look at how the thermostat is installed in your housing, its easy to put it in wrong, just find the right parts break down and it should show all the parts in their correct order

[roffey]

Originally Posted by spareparts

what he said!

take a long look at how the thermostat is installed in your housing, its easy to put it in wrong, just find the right parts break down and it should show all the parts in their correct order

I have no tstat in it right now. I am going to put one in. Something I did not know but the boat tstat is different from a car, not the same.

[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by roffey

I have no tstat in it right now. I am going to put one in. Something I did not know but the boat tstat is different from a car, not the same.

Boat T-STATS are a lower temp, and are all stainless whereas most cheap auto stats are regular steel. A steel t-stat in a marine environment will NOT last long, and WILL make a mess of things. And don't forget the check balls in the T-stat housing. It may be worth your time and money to just buy a whole new housing with check balls and springs off EBAY.

[roffey]

Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR

Boat T-STATS are a lower temp, and are all stainless whereas most cheap auto stats are regular steel. A steel t-stat in a marine environment will NOT last long, and WILL make a mess of things. And don't forget the check balls in the T-stat housing. It may be worth your time and money to just buy a whole new housing with check balls and springs off EBAY.

ok, where are the check balls and how do I test them? I still have the tstat housing off, I need a gasket.

This work thing gets in the way...

[THEFERMANATOR]

I just looked back through some of your posts and you have the log style manifolds. It doesn't appear as though they have the check balls in them. Check ebasicpower out for parts, that is where I bought parts for the last I/O I did.

[roffey]

I had the boat out for the afternoon today. It ran great, I had it full pin for about 10 min and the temp never went above 160. So the water impeller was the fix. So..

WOT is 30 mph and my rpm is 4 grand. So I think that means the prop is right.....

[smokeonthewater]

nope that means that either you aren't making the power you should or your prop it too steep... you should be hitting 4400

[roffey]

I have another prop I can try....

[smokeonthewater]

try a timing light too.
what pitch are you running now... probably a 15 would be right... I bet you have a 19 now

fwiw my cruiser runs 17's and tops out at 48 mph and 4600 rpm