Trailer size question.

[mushman]

Well now I have another question.The dual axle trailer needs some work,the last set of rollers at the rear is missing,brakes a probably non existent, and the pivot bar is bent.
I see a single axle bunk w brakes and papers for the same price.
Any suggestions?.

[reelapeelin]

Originally Posted by mushman

Well now I have another question.The dual axle trailer needs some work,the last set of rollers at the rear is missing,brakes a probably non existent, and the pivot bar is bent.
I see a single axle bunk w brakes and papers for the same price.
Any suggestions?.

Mush...depends on where you load...some ramps and areas are better suited for rollers and others for bunks...loading regulations vary as some folks here have stated power-loading is prohibited in their area...

W/all that said, if there is not an overriding factor, I'd go w/the single-axle bunk...keep in mind LENGTH isn't the biggest factor in matching a boat to a trailer...WEIGHT most definately is...be sure axle(s) & tires are of sufficient rating to handle a fully loaded V20, PLUS the weight of the trailer...My boat, motor and trailer full of fuel and incidentals weighed 4700 lbs...a 6000 lb rated trailer is about right IMHO for these boats, whether it is a single axle or tandem...

[Destroyer]

My V21 sits on a dual axle trailer. My V20 sits on a single axle trailer that has made the trip from NJ to Fla and back several times without any problems. Both work as they should. What Reelapeelin said about weight load is exactly correct. As long as the load rating is ok you should not have any problems.

However one thing to be careful about is the length. To avoid "cupping" your hull ideally you want the transom of your boat to just touch the last set of rollers or the end of the bunk. Try to avoid hanging off the end by any large amount of distance.

[reelapeelin]

Originally Posted by Destroyer

My V21 sits on a dual axle trailer. My V20 sits on a single axle trailer that has made the trip from NJ to Fla and back several times without any problems. Both work as they should. What Reelapeelin said about weight load is exactly correct. As long as the load rating is ok you should not have any problems.

However one thing to be careful about is the length. To avoid "cupping" your hull ideally you want the transom of your boat to just touch the last set of rollers or the end of the bunk. Try to avoid hanging off the end by any large amount of distance.

And the next consideration is how the weight is distributed...too much on the tail end of the trailer will cause fishtailing that you don't want any part of...too much on the tongue has it's own set of problems...make sure the PIVOT POINT of the trailer puts the proper amount of weight fore & aft...

[Destroyer]

Yup, Reelapeelin hit it right on the head. Too little tongue weight will cause fishtailing.... Too much will cause sagging, misaligned headlights, and uncontrolled "pushing" of the tow vehicle. (But it's always better to have too much rather than too little).

A neat trick to set your tongue weight properly is to take a scale and put it under your trailer jack. First, load your boat so that the end is even with the end of the trailer bunk or the last set of rollers. Once that is done, set your trailer jack to towing height and put the scale under the jack and look at the reading. (I normally set my tongue weight for about 250-300lbs initially, then readjust as necessary.) Adjust your trailer wheels (the pivot point) forward or backwards as necessary to hit that mark. Once you have that done take your boat and trailer out for a test ride. If you can constantly drive at highway speeds without any fishtailing you're done.

According to Shoreland'r trailers, the proper tongue weight is about 6% of your total boat load. They supply the following steps to determine it.

1) Transom should be flush with the end of the bunks/rollers to make sure that tongue weight calculation is correct.

2) To determine proper tongue weight, total the package weight (boat with fuel/battery, motor with maximum horsepower, and trailer) and multiply it by 6% on single axles and 5% on tandem axle trailers. ShoreLand'r suggests that tongue weight may be acceptable in a 5-7% range.

Using an appropriate scale, weigh trailer at coupler, making sure the trailer is at towing height.

Boat with fuel and battery 2000 lbs. Motor 500 lbs. Trailer 900 lbs.

Total Weight 3,400 lbs

Single Axle Figure x 6%

Tongue Weight 204 lbs

3).Using an appropriate scale, weigh trailer at coupler, making sure the trailer is at towing height...

If tongue weight is too heavy, move axle forward an avg. of 10 - 15 lbs. per inch for which the tongue weight is over.

If tongue weight is too light, move axle back an avg. of 10 - 15 lbs. per inch for which the tongue weight is under.

After readjustment, check tongue weight again; proceed as necessary depending on results.



*Note If you cannot properly load your boat onto the end of your trailer, so that the end is even with the end of your bunks/rollers, and then hit the desired tongue weight mark by adjusting your wheels forward or backwards then it's probable that your trailer is too small.

[reelapeelin]

Following all the above suggestions will be helpful, whether you have a single axle or double axle trailer in adhering to one of the most widely recognized 1st rules of trailering...keep all wheels pointed DOWN!!!...lol...

[jasoncooperpcola]

One other thing to consider. Watch out for trailers with the bunks cantilevered way off he *** of the trailer. IT'S CHEAP AND DANGEROUS!