Trailer hub replacement

[tsubaki]

I found out many years ago that a micrometer took all the guess work out of the spindle/bearing situation.

If you need even more confusing suggestions, I'm game!

[Blue_Runner]

Thanks for the quick help Tsub....my trailer is a 2005. I believe it is a posi-lube spindle because it has the grease fitting on the end of the spindle itself. I'm really liking what I'm reading about the Tie Down Super Lube kits vs. bearing buddies. Especially after having bearing buddies fly off going down the interstate.

So what you are saying is it could be straight 1-1/16 or tapered 1/38 x 1-1/16? Looks like the one in the link is straight and it doesn't say anything about center lug - it only says 5 lug? A little confused by this....but it doesn't take much to get me confused!

[Destroyer]

Blue, I hate to say this, but I'm really NOT a fan of Tie-Down products. They make a great actuater, but I've had nothing but problems with any of their brake products. Overpriced and underperforming junk. Now, truthfully, I've never tried these posi-lube spindles, so they may be great. Just keep a watchful eye on them for a while.

(And the number one reason for bearing buddies to fly off is a spindle nut that is not tight enough on the bearings... allows the wheel to actually move sideways and push the bearing buddy out.)

[tsubaki]

From what I remember there are several manufacturers of that type of spindle/grease situation. I've got two trailers that have that setup.
Seemed like there is a decal and sticker on the trailers that identified the spindle/bearing situation. And "might" have the size or part number affixed for identification.
The trailer load rating might give some insight as to the bearing size.
The hub pattern can be determined by measuring from the center of the hub to the center of one of the lug bolts and then multiply by 2.

[phatdaddy]

blue, i have 2 trailers with the "accu-lube" system. basically a zerk fitting on the end of the spindle with a passage way to the back of the spindle that delivers the grease between the inner bearing & rear seal. they work great. both trailers over 10 years old and no problems. once a year i pump a fresh tube of grease in. i change colors of grease so i know when the old is out and the new is in.

[reelapeelin]

Like Destroyer, I had bad experience w/Tie Down brakes AND actuator...very little customer service and that came w/attitude...

BUT my bigger concern is, does that kit come w/Chinese made bearings or American made bearings...if Chinese there are lots of roadside stories to go along w/those...they simply are not the quality of Timken and other American made bearings...you will pay more for them, but how often have you changed bearings?...if like me, not much, so while yer in there, use the best you can find.

THE OTHER question is what GREASE are those kits pregreased with??...is it a MARINE GRADE lubricant? All grease formulas are not alike nor are they compatible when mixed inside your hub...for instance, if they come w/a typical automotive grade pregrease and you later pump marine grade in there, you could be creating a problem for yourself...

The best way to size the bearings you need is to jack 'er up and get the numbers off the ones that are already in there...

[macojoe]

I love the greasing system you have and thats all I would buy again! Being a tandem I am betting you have a tapered shaft and it will be like 1 1/16 out side and 1 3/8 inside, just take them off and take with you to the store they will tell you. Why are you changing the hubs?? 99% of the time all you need are the bearings and seals. Much Much cheaper! Good Idea to have a spare hub incase. also anti seize the lug nuts so they don't rust on! after 5 years is the salt mine just spun right off!