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  #11  
Unread 01-17-2013, 07:05 PM
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reelapeelin reelapeelin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billymoca View Post
Oh one more question.... was your cap glued to the stringers? or was it only held by the screws?
Billy check our Classic Seacraft forum...there are several full transom remods there...Having spent some time on Ridge's beautiful CC, I can tell you it's as purdy up close as it looks in the pics...so many subtle changes to mention and crafted w/a great deal of attention to detail, fit & finish...you chose a good model for inspiration...
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  #12  
Unread 01-18-2013, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Kracker Jack View Post
Billy, I found mine in a cow pasture also. The cows used it as a scratch post!!! They almost pushed it off the trailer.
There's one word that will help you more than anything and that is research,research reasearch. When I first came to this forum I knew nothing about restoring a boat(well maybe alittle). The internet is full of knowledge. And this forum is awesome!!!!
Good luck on your build and we are all here to help.
Thanks...I really appreciate the help. reading the threads of all the rebuilds on here, it made the decision to rebuild this boat pretty easy.
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  #13  
Unread 01-18-2013, 09:35 AM
billymoca billymoca is offline
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Originally Posted by RidgeRunner View Post
In addition to all the screws the cap was glued/caulked to prevent water intrusion at the joint, then the floor of the liner was bonded to the stringers and transom with bonding putty. If you stick your head down in the storage compartment on the front deck you can see the bulkhead and how the putty was done. To remove the liner I used a couple forklifts. Made a few wedges to tap in between the liner and the top of the stringers. Access was limited so I went through the front hatch opening and the fuel tank hatch opening. Cut some short 2x4 to fit through the openings and tied the rope to the 2x4 so it was pulling up on the bottom side of the liner.
Sweet...

I built a temporary structure in the backyard to be able to lift the cap and eventually the boat off the trailer to re-gelcoat the bottom. I should be able to do the same thing this way.
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  #14  
Unread 01-18-2013, 09:39 AM
billymoca billymoca is offline
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Originally Posted by macojoe View Post
transom on these boats are curved, so using alum is going to be difficult. I just did the two 3/4 ply and it was always solid. like RR i used knee boards on the stringers to transom. Also get rid of the cap on the transom!! Why wellcraft did that i have no ideas, but i am sure it the cause of most transom rot!

good luck

I agree that cap will be the first to go.

Did you do your knee boards out of plywood or metal? I was thinking i would run the knee boards out of metal, through bolted at the stringer, then through bolted at the transom using the same bolts that hold the bracket on to the transom. I have a welding shop who is going to make me a custom bracket so we can put our bolts anywhere we want.
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  #15  
Unread 01-18-2013, 09:42 AM
billymoca billymoca is offline
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Originally Posted by jasoncooperpcola View Post
Billy in my thread, Cap is off, under general section there are pics of the three piece transom. I thought it was odd that three separate pieces were used. But it is easier to install that way.
OK>>>> I was wondering about that...... why the hell would they use three pieces for the transom. wouldn't that cause the transom to flex at the joints? I understand for ease of the install to match the curve...
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