99 Tahoe advice

[Skools Out]

stink i've had best luck with the MSD cap and button or the blue marine cap and button with brass terminals. Wires best luck with Delphi or AC wires. plugs best for me have been either AC Platinum or Denso Iridium plugs.

[THEFERMANATOR]

I like the blue marine cap as well. have yet to have one of them fail me, but many of the black ones give all kinds of grief. ANYTIME there is a torque converter issue with a 95+ 4L60E the valve body should be teh FIRST thing addressed. Most any trans shop knows this, and I'm surprised one told you to do a converter instead of the lockup valve. It wouldn't hurt to put a TRANSGO SK or HD2 shift kit in teh valve body. Lockup will be alot firmer, but it will eliminate the possibility of converter slippage from a control issue which is a semi common issue on 95+ 4L60E's. And it wouldn't hurt to put a fuel pressure guage on it while it is doing it to make sure it is holding pressure. If it still has teh central unit with poppets on it, they NEED at least 42 PSI to open the poppits properly, but prefer 46 or better.

[Skools Out]

ferm would this kit fix Stinks and mine as well? mine does it slightly time to time, it's a 99 as well...

http://transgoonline.com/products.ph...dcountview=Yes

[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by Skools Out

ferm would this kit fix Stinks and mine as well? mine does it slightly time to time, it's a 99 as well...

http://transgoonline.com/products.ph...dcountview=Yes

That's teh SK kit which is a good kit for daily drivers. If you tow alot or want really crisp shifts go with the HD2 kit. Also chances are your seperator plate will be WELL worn where the checkballs seat against it. The TRANSGO plate is a hardened plate and holds up a bit better than teh stock one does. The SK kit is designed for the professional, so the directions may not be that clear to follow for the average DIY who isn't real familiar with how a valve body works. The HD2 kit is a drop in kit with good directions, and you can buy a video for it as well. And being you both have 99's, the accumlator piston in the valve body should be swapped out for an aluminum one(GM put a plastic one in it, and they stick and crack which will cause a pressure bleed off).

[Skools Out]

took mine to the trans shop today they said they would rebuild the valve body, replace all solenoids, and add shift kit, plus service it for $385

[Stinky_Hooker]

OK, took it to a good mechanic to get it scanned. Found a few codes that shouldnt have anything to do with what its doing..minor stuff. He drove it and felt the shudder and talked about seals at the convertor that probably needed to be replaced when I did the convertor that could be allowing blowby and fluid getting past? Ferm this make any sense to you? Around the input shaft?

[Skools Out]

stink it's the valve body, that fixed mine, just need your valve body rebuilt.

[Stinky_Hooker]

Im taking in to the tranny guy next, just wondering, never heard of this.

[THEFERMANATOR]

Did he tell you what the codes were? I need to know what the P code numbers were to tell you what they might mean. And the codes for a 99 5.7L are HORRIBLE for telling you what the problem actually is. RARELY have I seen them throw a code for a bad O2, the ywill normally throw a misfire code when an O2 sensor fails. If there was a P1870 code in it, then the valve body needs to be done first before you go any furthur.