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#1
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If the bracket is out of the water then the tabs couldn't be on it.... maybe it should be even with the bottom of the boat with just the SLIGHTEST amount of rocker factored in to help lift the bow when tabs are retracted for max speed..... dunno.... might be virgin water here.
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#2
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I have seen a few brackets custom made same as the hull, this way you 20 footer would be a 23 footer, then you can add the tabs to the bracket as its the same as the hull, not raised.
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#3
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But wouldn't that be a hull extension, and not a bracket? The main reason I am going to bracket is for the performance and safety of a closed transom. I think if I take the bracket to the tabs that will be enough flotation. So 30" setback 44" wide and 20" tall with about 10" submerged. So thats ~550lbs flotation at normal water level and over a thousand if fully submerged. Minus the bracket weight.
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1983 V-20 capsized. . . . in the garage. |
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#4
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On the pilot house, just doing some rough measuring. 44" off the windshield mounting suface gives me a couple inches over my head of clearance. Should I increase that to 48"? Also having a clearance issue with the front. If I follow the original windscreens angle that puts the windscreen and drivers head in the same spot. Its either angle the windshield up more or move the helm back. I am going to cut some plywood to mock one side of the pilothouse and see how it looks. I am thinking of doing a pilothouse roughly four or five feet back from the windscreen. I wont need a massive pilot house but it needs to allow clearance for access to my fishboxes with the back wall installed. The back wall will be a cold weather install. Otherwise its an open back. Any suggestions? Its hard figuring out how to make a pilothouse work on a 20' boat.
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1983 V-20 capsized. . . . in the garage. |
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