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#1
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yep, what they said.... Tell me, what prop are you running and what top speed/rpm are you getting?
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#2
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What all is forgetting IMO is run the motor out of gas!! This new gas does all kinds of things when sitting!!
I have a newer motor but have always done it this way: Lower motor down so it can drain, leave down all winter Start motor and disconnect gas line, let run till is out of gas remove plugs and add fog oil, I just use 2 stroke oil turn motor over to coat inside, put plugs back in . WD all wires and motor clean up any corrosion wires now drain and refill lower unit, better now than spring! I once had a motor leak water in lower, when spring came the lower was locked solid!! If you do now there is no surprise come spring. sta-bil gas, there are two ways of thinking here, I fill my tank, always have. But others say use up as much gas as you can so you can start fresh in the spring! This new gas absorbs water, empty tank condensates water, pick your poison. Replace water separator for spring start up. If have not replaced water pump in a few years if on trailer or every year if moored then this is also a good time to do so. Batteries on a float charge. A charged battery will not freeze so leaving on boat with a onboard charger is ok if you have nowhere to store it. After spring start, and you burned off oil, I always put new plugs Enjoy the summer!!
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#3
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what about an water that could be potentially in the upper block? water pump area? etc....
Batton down the hatches- Here comes SANDY Thanks for all your help!!!! |
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#4
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When outboards are left down, the water in block drains, no reason to do anything there.
__________________
1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#5
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Quote:
I just bought the boat the end of summer. Also, has a 5 hp new kicker for trolling with a steering arm attached. I ordered a new switch panel from www.ezacdc.com out of Indiania. I am completely doing over the electrical. Any sources for an ignition. They ran a switch for the electronic choke (cobb job). It has the press down key type for starting. I would like to upgrade the ignition with a new ignition switch as well. |
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#6
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I have a 15" pitch prop on mine but have not yet tested except for a 5 minute test just to see if it would plane out.... carbs needed attn at the time tho.
Often there are markings on the prop that can identify the pitch If you click the link in my sig I'm building one with the same engine... I used a tracker ign switch with separate choke switch scavenged from some custom work I did on my dad's bass boat. Last edited by smokeonthewater; 11-07-2012 at 10:02 PM. |
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#7
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Smoke you should look at a alum 3 blade 13 1/4x17 for a v weighing between 2000-2800 lbs it should give you between 35-42 mph. The merc # isc-48-77344a4.
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#8
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interesting.... I have (I think) a 15 and a 19... both 3 blades... I can't wait to get some run time on her... maybe this spring
I just bought a new ignition switch for mine yesterday. http://www.ebay.com/itm/320968962161...84.m1439.l2649 Here is another one you might consider. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRACKER-WOOD...&forceRpt=true |
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