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Unread 10-26-2012, 12:24 AM
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When I mentioned the plywood, I was meaning it was an illussion without it. Transom will be a closed transom. But I do not like the way the top of the transom angles up. I prefer it flat from side to side. So that means a little more cap modification. As is I am almost cutting the entire back of the cap off to accomplish what I want my boat to be.

I have sinned. I have been on Classic SeaCraft looking at bracket builds. Not the first home built bracket has any swoop. All leveled v bottoms. Everybody is building molds. I was thinking with my outriggered stringers I could glass a top, bottom, and a motor mount on and call it done. Wondering If i need to rethink that. I want to go wider with my bracket, but I do not think I can with trim tabs. As is fully submerged I have 700lbs of flotation minus the bracket weight. I think its around 400lbs flotation at rest. I decided against a full width platform.

MJ one thing I did notice was with my Merc being a 25" shaft she should be high.
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Unread 10-26-2012, 12:47 AM
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BS, has built at least 3 and they have all been as you describe, he has done it on Seacrafts the one he did for his self and one other he did a 30" shaft, and WOW what a difference, the boat performed better then the other andthe motor is out of the water!! Mine are 25 and the motor sits close to the water all the time and is a bit scary at times. If I was to do it I would go with a 30" and V the bottom same as boat, now making the boat a 22 footer instead of a 20 footer. Trim tabs this way might be able to be mounted on the bracket?? as it will be the rear of the boat now?? I am just thinking not sure if its doable, I will ask BS tomorrow

Here is one he made


Here is a thread of a build he did with pic from beginning to end came out great!
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...hlight=bracket
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Unread 10-26-2012, 06:59 AM
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His did come out good. But one thing I have noticed is how heavy they are built. This is because they are bolted to the boat. I know that the outrigger stringer bracket is a much simpler and more capable design. The bracket is literally part of the boat not a bolt on.
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Unread 10-26-2012, 05:41 PM
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it was only about 100 pounds a little more, and gave 400 pounds of float. the stainless marine is 125#, and gives like 315# of float
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Unread 10-27-2012, 11:33 AM
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I am thinking the outrigger bracket will weigh a little over 100lbs. Using marine ply for the stringers and motor mount. The rest will hopefully be divinycell as the rest is the float chamber. I am thinking about going even wider with my bracket. Wider to the point, that its over my trim tabs and the actuator itself will determine where the bracket stops. Trying to get a 48" wide chamber. Then that leaves me room for twin engines without modification. The engines really need to be on 34 1/2" centers. But I want them as wide apart as possible. But for now its getting the single 2.5L Merc. Unless I find another during tax time.
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Unread 10-27-2012, 04:33 PM
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mebbe think outside the box.... If you really want to maximise it then just make it the whole width of the boat and put the tabs on the bracket.... the further back, the more effective they are with less input... IE more efficient/faster
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Unread 11-03-2012, 07:01 PM
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Scrap plywood mockup. Nobody use the b word!
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File Type: jpg image_0001.jpg (76.0 KB, 44 views)
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Unread 10-27-2012, 05:34 PM
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Good idea Smoke. But I am thinking the bracket will be out of the water when on plane. I have never owned a bracket boat so this is new. It will be 30" setback. But yeah, I have no problem mounting tabs on the bracket if they will still be effective. My bracket willbe 3" off the bottom of the boat.
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Unread 10-27-2012, 06:14 PM
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If the bracket is out of the water then the tabs couldn't be on it.... maybe it should be even with the bottom of the boat with just the SLIGHTEST amount of rocker factored in to help lift the bow when tabs are retracted for max speed..... dunno.... might be virgin water here.
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