Bilge Issue Help and Advice

[rrichar1]

Thanks for the replies folks.

This is what I ended up doing:
- Installed the old bilge pump and new auto 1500 Rulemate pump at the same level. I noticed that the auto takes on a lot of water before it turns on.
- I mounted the Rule Bilge alarm on a 2x4 and mounted it on the incline a little but it still may be to low. I need to test and see how much water it will kick on at.
- As suggested here I did run a new line for the new 1500 and first tried using the 162 series 1 1/8 hose but it was to rigid (lack of working room) and ended up having to go with the corrugated 'bilge' plastic hose. I will just have to watch it over the years, I know it's not the best option.
- I have a dual battery system and am going to attach both the new pump and the bilge alarm to my starting battery WITHOUT a fuse. Can you guys comment on this please? Real bad idea?

Thanks for your opinions.

[phatdaddy]

why would you not fuse anything electrical?
i had a bottom machine once i wired in without a fuse(it only draws 1-2 amps, i don't need no stinkin fuses). the power cord was wrapped around the hydraulic steering hoses. the machine shorted, the wire got red hot & melted the steering hose. we were 7 miles offshore when the smoke came bellowing out of the console.

yea , i think you need a fuse.

[gw204f]

Take however many batteries are in that boat and move them under the console....if you haven't already.

[Kracker Jack]

I agree with numerous ideas on this one. Move as much weight forward as you can (batteries,coolers,external fuel cells? etc..) I have had great success with ball scuppers on many boats I have owned I have one pictured. And definitely put a inline fuse to your bilge pumps if you hook them straight to the battery. I have also done research on the bilge hose and Im gonna be using a white sanitation hose like what is used in marine a camper applications. I hear the smooth wall on the sanitation hose will let your bilges run much better, plus it has good longevity.

[Cam]

From experience (not all good), always wire directly to the batteries on a fused line. Always have 2 pumps. Always have the larger of the 2, your primary (lowest point) pump. Always have one pump on each battery. And finally, replace any suspect hoses you think might be leaking. These suggestions will allow you to sleep much better at night.

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by phatdaddy

why would you not fuse anything electrical?
i had a bottom machine once i wired in without a fuse(it only draws 1-2 amps, i don't need no stinkin fuses). the power cord was wrapped around the hydraulic steering hoses. the machine shorted, the wire got red hot & melted the steering hose. we were 7 miles offshore when the smoke came bellowing out of the console.

yea , I think you need a fuse.

The problem with fusing a bilge pump is if you get anything binding the pump impeller you'll blow the fuse and then you have no pumping. This sometimes happens with a small piece of mono or braid as an example. While I agree that a fuse is necessary on any piece of electrical equipment there are two hard and fast rules you must follow for your bilge pump fuse.

1) Make it very easy to access...I'll repeat...make it VERY easy to get to..especially in an emergency.
2) Have plenty of spare fuses of the right size on hand right near the fuse holder.. 1 pkg is good, 2 pkgs is better.

Personally, I prefer a circuit breaker type of setup, but that's just me.

[smokeonthewater]

ever consider STOPPING the water from reaching the bilge???

you absolutely NEED a fuse or circuit breaker on EVERY circuit in the boat.... taking on water is bad but burning is WORSE

Don't "keep an eye on" the hose but rather replace it long before it becomes brittle.

x2 on moving batts forward.... mine (3 of them) are under a hatch in the floor in front of the console.

You might consider wiring one pump to each batt.... that way one dead batt won't sink you.... pun intended...