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  #1  
Unread 05-23-2012, 02:01 PM
BigHE BigHE is offline
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I appreciate that. I did find a better video on compression testing. It was a car though. I figure the process is the same. Unfortunately, the outboard ones never specifiedthat part of the process. At least the ones I saw. I'm going to hunt for a book today. I found a generic one online foe Johnson's around my year, but I'm going to see if I can find the specific. Guess you can't believe everyone at West Marine or maybe he just wanted to sell me more parts. Lol. Thanks again.
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Unread 05-23-2012, 03:21 PM
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everybody's got their own way of testing, but i always warm the motor up. then pull the kill switch to prevent accidental startups. advance the warm up lever all the way to open carbs. and pull one plug at a time.
mj's right, don't worry about cooling till you get the comp #'s back & forget the generic manuals, you need the one specific to your model
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Unread 05-23-2012, 09:35 PM
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Did the compression check, the right way. Thanks MJ. Here are the results.



I'm trying to find the repair manual specific to my motor, but keep running into the Clymer and Seloc Manuals. Phatdaddy are you saying I should be looking for the specific owner's manual or repair manual.

Trying to find out what to do next. Just so I'm clear, I should not run the motor like that at all?
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Unread 05-23-2012, 10:04 PM
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If you are SURE this is an 85 140HP EVINRUDE, compression should be up around 140-150 on it during cranking with a good battery. With 0 on one, I wouldn't put any money into it until you find out what is wrong with it. Could be a bad head gasket, but 85-87's were known to run hot and gaul the pistons. I would start by pulling that head off and see what teh cylinder looks like. be careful though as that engine has plain steel head bolts and they break off fairly easily if your not careful.
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2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD

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Unread 05-24-2012, 07:15 AM
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what ferm said, pull the heads and see what's goin on in that one cyl.
as far as the manuals, go on ebay or amazon and find one made by the engine manufactor for the engine you have. it is the shop manual they made for their dealers for that specific series of engines. clymer & selocs cover 8hp -250 hp for 10 years in one book, so you know the info is very broad and usually not very helpful to your situation.
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Unread 05-24-2012, 07:30 AM
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I'm pretty sure its an '85.



Cool. I'll pull the heads off and see what it looks like. The motor was pretty much free after all the other stuff I got off the boat. Hopefully I can save it though (or have it saved). That would be sweet. If I can't, what's the harm in running it locally till it dies? I'm willing to put a little money into it to have it fixed though.

I figure a motor that old will always require a little work. Am I right in that? The 60 psi would indicate a worn engine not really a bad engine. Meaning, some machine work would bring it back. Right? Just brainstorming. Thanks.
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  #7  
Unread 05-24-2012, 09:14 AM
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I found a link to outboardbooks.com from the Johnson website. I found it there. Thanks.
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  #8  
Unread 05-24-2012, 06:41 PM
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I would try spinning the fly wheel and see if that piston is moveing.I,ve seen where a cylinder had no compression and the rod be blown and the engin still run
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Unread 05-24-2012, 09:22 AM
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That serial tag is of an 85, the other questioon is does the engines welch plug serial number match the serail number on the tag? MOST 85's got replaced with new style engines under warranty as many of them cooked themselves. 60PSI is REALLY low, but this could also be due to the guage you used. I would try another compression guage if you can get access to one and see what you get then. As for running it with 0 compression in one cylinder, it may make it awhile or it may sling a rod through the block on the first run. If it isn't running on that cylinder and has no compression on it, then that means it isn't pulling any air through the carb for that cylinder. And when it doesn't pull any air, it isn't getting any fuel and no oil, so it is only a matter of time before a bearing in that cylinder locks up and comes un glued. Find out what is wrong with it first before your getting a tow in with a rod hanging out the block. It may just be a headgasket, or it could be a nic gouge down teh cylinder wall from a stuck ring that is just waiting to lift a sleeve out of teh block.
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2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD

AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664
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  #10  
Unread 05-24-2012, 10:07 AM
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Look at head gasket like therm said but thats as far as i would go, save my cash for something worth while!
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