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#1
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There it is. I put everything I had into turning those bolts, nothing... I removed the nuts and washers without issue. 
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#2
04-14-2012, 09:35 AM
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Maybe grind them flush then drill them out stepping your drill bit size up as you go? the pic i just noticed is under the gunnel, i would drill from the top side useing the phillips head insert on the bolt head as a center guide then drill then out.
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#3
04-14-2012, 10:40 AM
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I agree with Kracker... Drill from the top, stepping the drill bit size larger and larger as you go.
As an aside, you made a comment about using dissimilar metals (like alum and ss), and you're right, up to a point. An Anti-seize compound MUST be used on any Stainless Steel nuts, bolts, clamps or other hardware to prevent galling and thread seizure. So, you can use them, if you put an anti-seize compound (like Never seez) barrier coat on them first. I've sucessfully removed nuts and bolts that were on a boat for 20+ years that were coated with an anti seize compound before they were assembled with very little trouble. I've heard that it was invented for the military. Truthfully, I don't know who invented never seez, but coating all bolts before assembly was just about a required proceedure when I was in the Navy.
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God)  Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless.
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#4
04-14-2012, 01:25 PM
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Try an impact driver
I agree on the anti-seize - use it on everything on the boat. Have you tried an impact driver? I've gotten screws loose with that simple tool that nothing else would budge, particularly in a phillips head.
__________________
 Scott, Portland, OR '85 V-20 I/O, Merc 170
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#5
04-14-2012, 03:58 PM
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Kracker is right on, use the screw head to center the drill, drill out the heads till they pop off, go slow, use lots of drilling fluid. Once you get them out, use vise grips to wring off whats left in the plate, drill the plate over size and use ss nylocks when you put them back together
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#6
04-14-2012, 06:29 PM
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I was attempting to be a cheap-skate and save the hardware since its only the aluminum thats corroded but its more trouble than its worth. tomorrow I'll just drill out the heads, hopefully won't get rained on. thanks for the heads up on that anti-seize compound, I think the compound with the nylon barrier washers might do the trick. also gonna drill out the plate to a larger diameter hole. all good ideas, all getting used.
should have seen me trying to remove the old bow rail, every screw was seized! had to grind off the heads of 3/4 of the screws... not too tough just really annoying. I'll post pics of the new rail and new SS rod holders when done. thanks again
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#7
04-14-2012, 11:03 PM
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I actually used lock-tite when I built my motorcycle 2 winters ago. I converted evrything to stainless steel and put the bolts in aluminum!!!!!!! bad mistake!!!!! If you were to back one of those bolts out you are gonna pull the thread with it. I even warned the guy who bought the bike from me what I had done, I thought I owed it to him. This has nothing to do with this thread, I just decided to share my experience with aluminum and stainless
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