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#1
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Kracker, I allways tell people to go at least 2000 on their primary pumps with teh 1 1/8 smooth wall hose, bilge pumps are rated with no hose, no head pressure, just free flow and at 18 V. WHen you drop it down to 12 v, your cutting flow by about a third, when you hook hose to it with any rise, it probably drops another third, its said that the corrigated hose cuts flow in half. Years ago, one of th boating magazines did some test to confirm this data, it was worse than they thought, I wish I still had that article, I've sure quoted it enough. I run three 2000 GPH pumps on my V, each one with a direct lead to a high amp(20) rated float switch and directly to a battery, I run an indirect on/off switch as well, two of the float switches are in the bottom of the bilge, I have indicator lights on these, the third flaot switch is raised bit off the floor and is hooked to an alarm and light. IF you think youhave enough pump capacity, next time you go to the ramp, leave the pug out when you back it in, see if your pump can over come the water coming in thur a 3/4 hole, imagine what a thru hull broken off, or even some kind of hull breach would allow in. Oh and by the way, I've found the average life span for most pumps is about three years, just after the warranty runs out. Just food for thought
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#2
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#3
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X2 What Spare said. The GPH rating system on pumps is well overstated. I have one 1000 and one 1500 Rule's in the bilge of my 20. One of the automatic switches is higher than the other. I can put a 3/4" garden hose at 60 psi loose in the boat. The first 1000 GPH pump comes on, pumps the water out and turns itself off. If the second one kicks in a light and alarm sounds to warn of high water in the bilge. I have heard the alarm during testing but never on the water.. I try to keep the bilge clean so nothing can jam the impeller. I am OCD about the pumps on this boat. When either one of them die, I am going to upsize again. I started with an 800 and a 1000.
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1996 -19' NV Flats 115 Mercury 4-stroke 1983 -20' Wellcraft Center Console 250 XS |
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#4
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Started stripping the t-top today after work. LOADS OF FUN!!!! I devised a mounting plan for the top. Im gonna have to extend it in height by 4 inches and fabricate base plates. Then fabricate some standoff brackets for mounting it to the side of the console. Then bring it to my welder to get it glued together. i can weld but cant weld aluminum!!!!!
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#5
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Looking good Kracker!
And x3 what everyone is saying on bilge pumps. I wouldn't trust a 500gph bilge pump at all. On a second note, i have decided to keep my V20. Now, its a cuddy cabin, I want a center console. What do you think of gutting it and rigging it like yours? I showed dad some of the pictures of yours and he likes it. I believe all my stringers and transom are in good shape. I have the console and bow rails from the 18 i planned to rebuild. I just dont like the cuddy and the useless livewell in the floor.
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1983 V-20 capsized. . . . in the garage. Last edited by jasoncooperpcola; 04-10-2012 at 11:45 PM. |
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#6
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#7
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Its the '83 V20 in my signature.
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1983 V-20 capsized. . . . in the garage. Last edited by jasoncooperpcola; 04-11-2012 at 04:35 PM. |
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#8
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Last edited by Kracker Jack; 04-11-2012 at 09:32 PM. |
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#9
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Come strip my bottom coat and I'll run up there and strip yer T-top!!...
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'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha |
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#10
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as you guys have watched me build this boat Im sure a few of you now have figured out that everything I do on this boat is CAVE MAN style and I guess I would say old school and fuctional.Even the core for my hatches that i cut out tonight are just simple ACX 3/4 ply thats gonna be wrapped with 2 layers of 1708 and then faired. This is a very budget concious build.This is what I consider a true shade tree build!!!!!!
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