Va Beach v20 project

[Kracker Jack]

That sump well is sealed off, theres gonna be one thru-transom drain plug in the sump. Im only gonna be fishing this boat in ideal conditions and no more than 15 0r 20 miles off the beach I seriously doubt I will ever be in a situation to were I take a rogue over the stern but i still I want the deck as sealed of as possible the only place water can get into the bilge is by the storage hatch forward at the bow, I want the boat to have a chance of popping up like a cork and rolling that water over the stern. In front of the sump well I will have a 7x11 pop up deck type hatch so I can access my rule bilge pump. I will also have a 500 gph or better in the sump well to pump transom and deck wash overboard.

[reelapeelin]

Originally Posted by Kracker Jack

That sump well is sealed off, theres gonna be one thru-transom drain plug in the sump. Im only gonna be fishing this boat in ideal conditions and no more than 15 0r 20 miles off the beach I seriously doubt I will ever be in a situation to were I take a rogue over the stern but i still I want the deck as sealed of as possible the only place water can get into the bilge is by the storage hatch forward at the bow, I want the boat to have a chance of popping up like a cork and rolling that water over the stern. In front of the sump well I will have a 7x11 pop up deck type hatch so I can access my rule bilge pump. I will also have a 500 gph or better in the sump well to pump transom and deck wash overboard.

Kracker I don't want ya to think I'm raggin on ya...I'm actually envious of your skills, so take the following as food for thought...not criticism...I'm glad to hear yer gonna put a floor hatch ahead of the sump for bilge pump access...but at the same time on pump size; THINK BIGGER...500s are for bait tanks and paddle boats...a grand in the sump and a grand in the bilge are better selections...and even bigger won't hurt...
We took a 17'er 35 miles off Charleston one day and had perfect seas(as forecasted) until we were in sight (5 miles or so) of the jetties when we started taking waves over the windshield one of which took the hat off my head...and I bet ya Macojoe seriously doubted having his windshield destroyed and cockpit FILLED close shore either...some days, that's where the poop gets in the fan...I ain't waggin' a finger here...just tryin' to keep ya safe...

[Kracker Jack]

Originally Posted by reelapeelin

Kracker I don't want ya to think I'm raggin on ya...I'm actually envious of your skills, so take the following as food for thought...not criticism...I'm glad to hear yer gonna put a floor hatch ahead of the sump for bilge pump access...but at the same time on pump size; THINK BIGGER...500s are for bait tanks and paddle boats...a grand in the sump and a grand in the bilge are better selections...and even bigger won't hurt...
We took a 17'er 35 miles off Charleston one day and had perfect seas(as forecasted) until we were in sight (5 miles or so) of the jetties when we started taking waves over the windshield one of which took the hat off my head...and I bet ya Macojoe seriously doubted having his windshield destroyed and cockpit FILLED close shore either...some days, that's where the poop gets in the fan...I ain't waggin' a finger here...just tryin' to keep ya safe...

Reel I completely agree with you on the pumps,I will drop and 1100 rule in the sump and in the bilge. The worst conditions I have ever been in was in my dads v20 during our small boat marlin tournament here out of va beach. And I been on my dads v20 and we have taken it where v20's don't belong, the furthest we fished my dads v was 58 miles off the beach up in the " Fingers" tuna and white marlin fishing with acid jugs filled with gas strapped to the console. And burning numerous external red moeller tanks on the way out. So yes you are right, conditions can change at the drop of a hat. Reel I always appreciate all your advice and thanks for all help and input.

[spareparts]

Kracker, I allways tell people to go at least 2000 on their primary pumps with teh 1 1/8 smooth wall hose, bilge pumps are rated with no hose, no head pressure, just free flow and at 18 V. WHen you drop it down to 12 v, your cutting flow by about a third, when you hook hose to it with any rise, it probably drops another third, its said that the corrigated hose cuts flow in half. Years ago, one of th boating magazines did some test to confirm this data, it was worse than they thought, I wish I still had that article, I've sure quoted it enough. I run three 2000 GPH pumps on my V, each one with a direct lead to a high amp(20) rated float switch and directly to a battery, I run an indirect on/off switch as well, two of the float switches are in the bottom of the bilge, I have indicator lights on these, the third flaot switch is raised bit off the floor and is hooked to an alarm and light. IF you think youhave enough pump capacity, next time you go to the ramp, leave the pug out when you back it in, see if your pump can over come the water coming in thur a 3/4 hole, imagine what a thru hull broken off, or even some kind of hull breach would allow in. Oh and by the way, I've found the average life span for most pumps is about three years, just after the warranty runs out. Just food for thought

[Kracker Jack]

Originally Posted by spareparts

Kracker, I allways tell people to go at least 2000 on their primary pumps with teh 1 1/8 smooth wall hose, bilge pumps are rated with no hose, no head pressure, just free flow and at 18 V. WHen you drop it down to 12 v, your cutting flow by about a third, when you hook hose to it with any rise, it probably drops another third, its said that the corrigated hose cuts flow in half. Years ago, one of th boating magazines did some test to confirm this data, it was worse than they thought, I wish I still had that article, I've sure quoted it enough. I run three 2000 GPH pumps on my V, each one with a direct lead to a high amp(20) rated float switch and directly to a battery, I run an indirect on/off switch as well, two of the float switches are in the bottom of the bilge, I have indicator lights on these, the third flaot switch is raised bit off the floor and is hooked to an alarm and light. IF you think youhave enough pump capacity, next time you go to the ramp, leave the pug out when you back it in, see if your pump can over come the water coming in thur a 3/4 hole, imagine what a thru hull broken off, or even some kind of hull breach would allow in. Oh and by the way, I've found the average life span for most pumps is about three years, just after the warranty runs out. Just food for thought

Thanks for the info Spare. Me and you actually spoke about this bilge pump set up on the phone.

[RidgeRunner]

X2 What Spare said. The GPH rating system on pumps is well overstated. I have one 1000 and one 1500 Rule's in the bilge of my 20. One of the automatic switches is higher than the other. I can put a 3/4" garden hose at 60 psi loose in the boat. The first 1000 GPH pump comes on, pumps the water out and turns itself off. If the second one kicks in a light and alarm sounds to warn of high water in the bilge. I have heard the alarm during testing but never on the water.. I try to keep the bilge clean so nothing can jam the impeller. I am OCD about the pumps on this boat. When either one of them die, I am going to upsize again. I started with an 800 and a 1000.

[Kracker Jack]

Started stripping the t-top today after work. LOADS OF FUN!!!! I devised a mounting plan for the top. Im gonna have to extend it in height by 4 inches and fabricate base plates. Then fabricate some standoff brackets for mounting it to the side of the console. Then bring it to my welder to get it glued together. i can weld but cant weld aluminum!!!!!