Va Beach v20 project

[Kracker Jack]

Well I have a paint schedule finally. Im gonna be using all Interlux products starting on the bottom with a white VC PERFORMANCE EPOXY, moving up the sides with a epoxy primekote primer and Interlux Perfection Fighting Lady Yellow topcoat. The caps and inside will also be primed with epoxy primekote and top coated with Interlux perfection Artic White. Im also open to using a durabak 18 white bedliner for non skid or a Grizzly grip product. Im also gonna sandblast my t-top then use a Interlux prime wash and then prime with Interprotect 2000E epoxy primer with a finish coat of Perfection Artic White.

i have been experimenting with the 3m glass bubbles I bought, and making fairing compounds. I think its alot better to make your own rather than buying it and alot more cost effective. I can make 2 1/2 gallons of fairing compound for right at $115.00.

[tartuffe]

I was thinking about using those same rpoducts. I was going the sterling route until I priced it all up Friday and the tab came to $1300 so I went back looking at a few different brands. Anyway, the only drawback to the VC for me was having to spray it. I read they said it can be applied with roll and tip but its not made for that. So I'm going to keep searching for a high-gloss hard bottom paint that I can roll and tip.

Are you spraying or are you going to try and roll it?

[Kracker Jack]

Oh I'm definitely spraying. I painted my skiff,my old 24ft seaox,and the Albemarle and a bunch of stuff. I'm pretty good with spray gun. I have a good friend who paints cars for a living and pretty much taught me how to spray

[Kracker Jack]

Originally Posted by tartuffe

I was thinking about using those same rpoducts. I was going the sterling route until I priced it all up Friday and the tab came to $1300 so I went back looking at a few different brands. Anyway, the only drawback to the VC for me was having to spray it. I read they said it can be applied with roll and tip but its not made for that. So I'm going to keep searching for a high-gloss hard bottom paint that I can roll and tip.

Are you spraying or are you going to try and roll it?

I'm gonna have right at $380.00 just in product,I don't think that's bad at all. I was given a free gps for the boat today so that opens the budget big time!

[Kracker Jack]

I made my chase box at the transom yesterday, and yes its boxy and yes its gonna hold water in that corner but i really dont have a choice. I had plans of building that splash box witch would have incoporated the chase box in the corner.

I also built and routered my ridgid teak grate over my sump well, I made it with some scrap teak that came off of an old bow rider that is scraped. It turned out awesome.

[jasoncooperpcola]

All i have to say is, AWESOME JOB Kracker Jack!!
I just spent about two hours reading this whole thread. I learned alot.

I have a 1982 Wellcraft 18 Fisherman. The PO cut the liner all the way across about two foot ahead of the splashwell to do a transom repair, and now the liner is cracking where they halfass repaired it. So i may take the whole liner out and cap the gunnels with open sides. That alone may be enough to allow me put a bracket on the 18. AND raise the floor if i need to.

[reelapeelin]

Kracker that grate is awesome!!...I'm REEL glad ya decided to nix the splashwell!!...yer doin' a great job on this...EXCELLENT WORK!!......fun to watch the progress!!...

[Kracker Jack]

Originally Posted by reelapeelin

Kracker that grate is awesome!!...I'm REEL glad ya decided to nix the splashwell!!...yer doin' a great job on this...EXCELLENT WORK!!......fun to watch the progress!!...

Reel I have decided to put a removable transom type splash board in this boat. As you can see with the black lines i photo shopped in the picture shows that the board will span the whole beam port to starboard. Will be about 14 to 16 inches tall and will be offset to the transom side of the sump well allowing deck water to drain into the sumpwell. The splash board will also have garage door type rubber gasket under it to reduce fatigue on the floor and ultimately keep water that comes over the transom in the general area until it can wash into the sumpwell and be pumped out. The beautiful thing about this setup is that its removeable. I am going to be making in out of a 2 inch micro-lam beam that will be glass with 1708 to encapsulate.

[Kracker Jack]

Originally Posted by jasoncooperpcola

All i have to say is, AWESOME JOB Kracker Jack!!
I just spent about two hours reading this whole thread. I learned alot.

I have a 1982 Wellcraft 18 Fisherman. The PO cut the liner all the way across about two foot ahead of the splashwell to do a transom repair, and now the liner is cracking where they halfass repaired it. So i may take the whole liner out and cap the gunnels with open sides. That alone may be enough to allow me put a bracket on the 18. AND raise the floor if i need to.

I have learned alot also!!! when I started this project I pretty much knew nothing about this kind of work. I owned my own buisness for 8 years doing residential remodle and light duty commercial work, so working with wood all my life and having what I like to call "VISION" made it pretty easy to catch on. I also did alot of studying and researching on the internet. Thank for the compliments. She gonna be battle ready soon I hope!!!