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  #1  
Unread 03-25-2012, 05:29 PM
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Jesus, you have performed a pile more in the pictures than I've seen in a while!
"Lucky to see the water", my *** in Nebraska.
Looks good!!
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Unread 05-13-2012, 01:02 PM
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Default So what am I missing

I've been mocking up the conduit for my control cables, hydraulic steering and all of the electrical. I came up with the idea of running it under the fuel tank rather than cut through all of my bulkheads. I tried running 3" conduit for all of it but it does not work out so I am planning on running a 2" for the electrical and 2.5" for the controls and steering. The Controls will fit in a 2" but it is tight.

This is what we got:

The bulkhead is going where the yellow straight edge is.
The batteries will sit where the blue styrofoam is.
The access hatch is roughly the same dimensions as the two pieces of PVC.
The fule fill and vent lines will run where the grey conduit is laid out on the tank.
The bottom of the livewell is approx. 7" off the center bottom or about a 1/2" above the top of the 3/4" strip of ply.

I will fill the whole tank area with foam once everything is in place.

So what am I not considering? What do you guys think of going with 2 separate chases rather than 1 and any good ideas to seal them non-permanently?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg boat 11 website.jpg (39.9 KB, 221 views)
File Type: jpg boat 12 website.jpg (69.9 KB, 192 views)
File Type: jpg boat 13 website.jpg (65.5 KB, 195 views)
File Type: jpg boat 14 website.jpg (63.4 KB, 180 views)
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  #3  
Unread 05-13-2012, 01:38 PM
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i would think 2 would be better than one that is packed. if you've got the room, i'd add another 1". just for future stuff.
something else you might want to consider, adding 2 pieces of 3" on the outside of the stringers, below the deck and using them as freshwater storage tanks. i have 2 6' pieces on either side of mine, below the rodboxes and it gives me 5 or 6 gallons of fresh water. i plumbed them to a pump located in the center of the hull, by the transom.
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Unread 05-13-2012, 03:49 PM
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A lot of hard work, it will come out beautiful I am sure.
I would do the two runs in three inch like said above.
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Unread 05-13-2012, 08:02 PM
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I like the idea for freshwater on the boat. That would be nice to get the salt off me at the end of the day. I may try to plumb in a quick connect water tank for the bow tied into the washdown pump with a tee and valve. Good ideaand also the future conduit idea, plenty of room under the tank.

Looking down my gunnels, I only have around 2" of clearance between the cap and hull above the bulkheads until you get about half way up. Any 3" conduit would have to go through my stringer and through 3 of those bulkheads, I really really want to avoid cutting into all of that since I already have to cut the stringer for the fuel fill and vent.

Here is a pic looking between the cap and hull inside the gunnel
Attached Images
File Type: jpg boat 15 website.jpg (74.1 KB, 91 views)
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Unread 05-13-2012, 08:13 PM
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When I finished my stringers I almost cried when I had to drill 2 holes for my conduit to pass thru!!!!!! so I know what ya mean by cutting into your wood.
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Unread 05-13-2012, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kracker Jack View Post
When I finished my stringers I almost cried when I had to drill 2 holes for my conduit to pass thru!!!!!! so I know what ya mean by cutting into your wood.

Yeah man, and I don't know how many years Wellcraft did this but I only have 2 stringers and then all those mini bulkheads going from the stringer to the chine so when I cut a big holes in like the factory did then I just weakened one of my primary support structures at a critical area.

If I recall you have what like 5 stringers? Little more structurally redundant design for sure.
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  #8  
Unread 07-18-2012, 07:28 PM
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Time to post more pics. I've been rebuilding using divynicell H80 1/2" foam board. Lots of grinding to get all the rot and not quite rot off. Getting the platform to make the floor completely flat took a little more than I was anticipating but it is FLAT. Bags of water were to distribute weight across the foam board to get a nice bond between the original deck skin and the foam.

Two layers of 1708 will cover it all.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg boat 23 website.jpg (97.4 KB, 114 views)
File Type: jpg boat 24 website.jpg (73.0 KB, 113 views)
File Type: jpg boat 25 website.jpg (48.6 KB, 111 views)
File Type: jpg boat 26 website.jpg (88.0 KB, 116 views)
File Type: jpg boat 27 website.jpg (72.4 KB, 112 views)
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  #9  
Unread 07-18-2012, 07:31 PM
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Here is a pic that shows the 1/2" thick aluminum plates to bolt the t-top to as well as a profile of the divynicell. Another pic is the foam board all pre-cut and ready to be removed to lay a layer of PB and place back on.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg boat 28 website.jpg (65.0 KB, 113 views)
File Type: jpg boat 29 website.jpg (37.1 KB, 110 views)
File Type: jpg boat 30 website.jpg (76.5 KB, 115 views)
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  #10  
Unread 07-20-2012, 08:07 AM
the daydreamer the daydreamer is offline
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tarfulle were did you get your windshield? and what kind of cost did you encure? mine is split down the middle and sure would like to have a new one if cost was not to much. thanks
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