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  #1  
Unread 03-25-2012, 01:59 PM
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What if you find a simple reostat in the spec range?...that should give you the full range of control from hi to low...the Minn Kotas we use had speeds 1-10 and some guy came up w/a control box w/a reostat that gave infinite variable speed...it was a wired unit and worked very well for back then...I was about to buy one when the new Co-Pilot came out...couldn't resist.
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Unread 03-26-2012, 12:27 PM
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You reckon I can get an I-phone ap to do this?? HEEHee Haa Haa..
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Unread 03-26-2012, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RidgeRunner View Post
You reckon I can get an I-phone ap to do this?? HEEHee Haa Haa..
Heck they'll do everything else...Good talkin' to you...did the scooter switch work?...
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Unread 03-26-2012, 05:11 PM
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Still looking at it. If I paid myself a nickel an hour for the research time I coulda bought a new one already. I think Kelly Controls is gonna be the answer to my dilemma.
http://kellycontroller.com/kds241001...ller-p-73.html

Waiting on a response from Steven Li on a few issues like the momentary on and any additional resistors/flux capacitors that I may need. Looks good so far. I think the throttle is gonna be a slam dunk factory type retro-fit. Nice because I am not sure how salt-proof they are. At $19 I don't see it being a big problem. The control unit may need to be mounted in the semi-dry hatch directly under the motor. Might need to get rid of the foot switch too. I'll conjure something up and let everybody know what I got.
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Unread 04-16-2012, 07:30 AM
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Went with the Kelly Controls KDS 24v 200Amp motor controller. It comes with plugs and pins to make wiring easy.
I attached it to the inside wall of the hatch under the lip for the best weather protection.
trolling motor fix 008.jpg.
I ordered the weatherproofing option for the controller for $15. The programming allows you to set input voltage on the low and high side for protection of the controller. Also delay on, high throttle bypass, throttle input, speed of throttle acknowledgement, percent of battery voltage output and a few other tricks. The controller wouldn't fit where the factory electrics were so extra wires had to be run from the throttle pot, on-off switch and LED light in the head to the control unit under the deck. Electric taped all the insulated signal wires to the power cable for now. Also incorporated my foot switch on the deck so it really is just like it was from the factory. Bottom line was around $200 from soup to nuts. But it works like a charm, fully variable, with a little dead spot at the beginning of the throttle that I was unable to program out. Decided to go with a little heavier controller after talking with Kelly, this one produces no heat that I could tell. Water test is next. I wanna see if the case ever heats up. The beauty is that the controller is one big heat sink, I doubt it will need any additional mass.
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Unread 04-16-2012, 07:43 AM
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Remove the old electronics
trolling motor fix 004.jpg
Begin the install of the Controller
trolling motor fix 003.jpg
Yes that is a computer cable hooked to the controller
trolling motor fix 002.jpg
trolling motor fix 001.jpg
And the spot for the LED installation
Attached Images
File Type: jpg trolling motor fix 005.jpg (45.9 KB, 4 views)
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  #7  
Unread 04-16-2012, 07:48 AM
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Mounted to the hull under the deck
trolling motor fix 007.jpg
Should stay relatively dry. It is just there on the left in the picture.
trolling motor fix 008.jpg
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