Fuel tank removal

[SkunkBoat]

just my 2 cents...

I replaced the original tank on my 84. The original setup was foamed in. PVC passing water from bow to bilge, bypassing the tank compartment and tank hatch sealed with silicone. This setup lasted 25 years. So I stopped pondering what to do and just replaced exactly the same way.

If you are foaming in then definitely make sure no water can enter the tank compartment from bilge or hatch.

And I agree that the power washer method was "best" and that wasn't very easy either. Be careful to find all the little pieces of foam that are now everywhere in your bilge.

[reelapeelin]

I think foaming a tank into the bottom of a hull, then believing water won't get in there has lead to a lot of premature tank failure...sooner or later I'll have to replace one and I'll be figuring out how to ensure moisture won't be held against the outside of the tank, including the bottom it rests on and how best to drain it out of the compartment...

Keep in mind the bilge is not the only area electrical connections are found...sending unit on top of tank(enclosed compartment) is continuous electrical feed while running...on/off w/ign switch...

[Destroyer]

I haven't had to replace a tank yet, and truthfully, I hope I never have to... BUT...if I did have to replace a tank the first thing I would do is coat the tank with a sealer. Polyurethane, epoxy, vinyl, rubber, paint... something. The trick is to make a permanant barrier between the metal and the water. Hell, I might even consider having it Rhinolined like a truck bed. Once it's sealed your only consideration would be mounting it so it doesn't move.. and I would think that some foam or a few strips of glass could take care of that.

[awthacker]

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat

Be careful to find all the little pieces of foam that are now everywhere in your bilge.

You mean the pieces that like to get stuck under the float switch and keep the bulge running?

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by awthacker

You mean the pieces that like to get stuck under the float switch and keep the bilge running?

Ya, those and the tiny ones that like to get into and around the pump and clog it up so it burns out.

[awthacker]

Here's what they look like after pressing against wet foam for 30 yrs.

Coating it is a good idea. Then some maybe glassed wood "feet" to hold it off the bottom, and minimal foam around the sides/over the top edge, to hold it firmly in place is what I'm thinking.

I'm debating two options for drainage. Either nix the pvc and allow a gap under the bulkheads for water to flow to the back. Or glass one or two PVC pipes in and seal the fuel compartment completely.

[bradford]

I didn't foam on mine. I set the tank on pressure treated 2 by 4's which I 5200ed to the bilge and then covered with thick beads of 5200 before setting the tank on top. Be sure to let the 5200 cure before adding fuel to the new tank. This lets any water easily drain away from the tank and let the compartment dry out.

And Reel, something about the fuel sender always scared me so its disconnected. LOL.

[smokeonthewater]

Originally Posted by bradford

I didn't foam on mine. I set the tank on pressure treated 2 by 4's which I 5200ed to the bilge and then covered with thick beads of 5200 before setting the tank on top. Be sure to let the 5200 cure before adding fuel to the new tank.

hope you never have to get THAT one out.... your only hope would be trained termites to chew the wood out LOL

[SkunkBoat]

Originally Posted by awthacker

You mean the pieces that like to get stuck under the float switch and keep the bulge running?

they'll also get stuck in the pvc tube and in the drainage holes in the stringers. You'll be amazed what you can find if you start reaching your hand into dark places....every screw, nut, washer, sinker, hook, mussel, and crab claw that ever hit the deck and bounced left....

[RidgeRunner]

Might want to check with GarageNC but Coal Tar Epoxy works wonders on the fuel tank. It is made for submersion in salt water (ie. metal work boats, pipelines, etc.). I spent a few hours and dollars painting my new aluminum tank with zinc chromate and then overcoated with satin black rattle cans. My boat guru buddy showed me how a little acetone on a rag would easily remove the paint and we went with the Coal Tar instead. I have never seen anything tougher in a two part paint.

My 1983 center console did not have the fuel tank compartment sealed. In fact it looked as if they had cut the rear bulkhead down to nearly even with the top of the tank. There were four plywood wedges under the tank for support, two scrap pieces of wood screwed to the top of the stringers perpendicular to the keel to help hold the tank in place and then foamed. My original tank was beige in color.