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#1
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I think the fuel compartment has to be sealed. the pvc is to allow water from the front to travel to the rear and be pumped out the bilge pump. if the fuel tank were to leak, the gas would flow to the bilge and go boom when the pump kicked on.
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#2
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Fuel tank compartment doesn't have to be sealed... MANY boats have the fuel tank in the engine compartment and the bilge pump, float switch, and anything else in there should be ign. protected.
The foam is used to physically mount the tank.. you can tab it in with glass, or strap it down, or box it in with wood instead. Foam is MUCH faster and easier in a production environment where the rest of the hull is getting foam in various places anyhow. |
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#3
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just my 2 cents...
I replaced the original tank on my 84. The original setup was foamed in. PVC passing water from bow to bilge, bypassing the tank compartment and tank hatch sealed with silicone. This setup lasted 25 years. So I stopped pondering what to do and just replaced exactly the same way. If you are foaming in then definitely make sure no water can enter the tank compartment from bilge or hatch. And I agree that the power washer method was "best" and that wasn't very easy either. Be careful to find all the little pieces of foam that are now everywhere in your bilge.
__________________
1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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#4
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I think foaming a tank into the bottom of a hull, then believing water won't get in there has lead to a lot of premature tank failure...sooner or later I'll have to replace one and I'll be figuring out how to ensure moisture won't be held against the outside of the tank, including the bottom it rests on and how best to drain it out of the compartment...
Keep in mind the bilge is not the only area electrical connections are found...sending unit on top of tank(enclosed compartment) is continuous electrical feed while running...on/off w/ign switch...
__________________
'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha |
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#5
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I haven't had to replace a tank yet, and truthfully, I hope I never have to... BUT...if I did have to replace a tank the first thing I would do is coat the tank with a sealer. Polyurethane, epoxy, vinyl, rubber, paint... something. The trick is to make a permanant barrier between the metal and the water. Hell, I might even consider having it Rhinolined like a truck bed. Once it's sealed your only consideration would be mounting it so it doesn't move.. and I would think that some foam or a few strips of glass could take care of that.
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
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#6
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You mean the pieces that like to get stuck under the float switch and keep the bulge running?
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#7
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Quote:
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
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#8
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Here's what they look like after pressing against wet foam for 30 yrs.
Coating it is a good idea. Then some maybe glassed wood "feet" to hold it off the bottom, and minimal foam around the sides/over the top edge, to hold it firmly in place is what I'm thinking. I'm debating two options for drainage. Either nix the pvc and allow a gap under the bulkheads for water to flow to the back. Or glass one or two PVC pipes in and seal the fuel compartment completely. |
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#9
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I didn't foam on mine. I set the tank on pressure treated 2 by 4's which I 5200ed to the bilge and then covered with thick beads of 5200 before setting the tank on top. Be sure to let the 5200 cure before adding fuel to the new tank. This lets any water easily drain away from the tank and let the compartment dry out.
And Reel, something about the fuel sender always scared me so its disconnected. LOL.
__________________
1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 |
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#10
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they'll also get stuck in the pvc tube and in the drainage holes in the stringers. You'll be amazed what you can find if you start reaching your hand into dark places....every screw, nut, washer, sinker, hook, mussel, and crab claw that ever hit the deck and bounced left....
__________________
1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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