Fuel tank removal

[smokeonthewater]

I would think that the only reason you'd even need the pvc is if you were gonna refoam.... My V doesn't have pvc but the resto was done by the P/O

[awthacker]

Whether or not to foam was my next question. Seems like moisture trapped in the foam is what did the tank in. Bad design? I was thinking of just enough foam to hold the tank firmly in place. Is there an alternative way to secure the tank? Is it okay for saltwater to wash around beneath the tank?

[phatdaddy]

I think the fuel compartment has to be sealed. the pvc is to allow water from the front to travel to the rear and be pumped out the bilge pump. if the fuel tank were to leak, the gas would flow to the bilge and go boom when the pump kicked on.

[smokeonthewater]

Fuel tank compartment doesn't have to be sealed... MANY boats have the fuel tank in the engine compartment and the bilge pump, float switch, and anything else in there should be ign. protected.

The foam is used to physically mount the tank.. you can tab it in with glass, or strap it down, or box it in with wood instead.

Foam is MUCH faster and easier in a production environment where the rest of the hull is getting foam in various places anyhow.

[SkunkBoat]

just my 2 cents...

I replaced the original tank on my 84. The original setup was foamed in. PVC passing water from bow to bilge, bypassing the tank compartment and tank hatch sealed with silicone. This setup lasted 25 years. So I stopped pondering what to do and just replaced exactly the same way.

If you are foaming in then definitely make sure no water can enter the tank compartment from bilge or hatch.

And I agree that the power washer method was "best" and that wasn't very easy either. Be careful to find all the little pieces of foam that are now everywhere in your bilge.

[reelapeelin]

I think foaming a tank into the bottom of a hull, then believing water won't get in there has lead to a lot of premature tank failure...sooner or later I'll have to replace one and I'll be figuring out how to ensure moisture won't be held against the outside of the tank, including the bottom it rests on and how best to drain it out of the compartment...

Keep in mind the bilge is not the only area electrical connections are found...sending unit on top of tank(enclosed compartment) is continuous electrical feed while running...on/off w/ign switch...

[Destroyer]

I haven't had to replace a tank yet, and truthfully, I hope I never have to... BUT...if I did have to replace a tank the first thing I would do is coat the tank with a sealer. Polyurethane, epoxy, vinyl, rubber, paint... something. The trick is to make a permanant barrier between the metal and the water. Hell, I might even consider having it Rhinolined like a truck bed. Once it's sealed your only consideration would be mounting it so it doesn't move.. and I would think that some foam or a few strips of glass could take care of that.

[awthacker]

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat

Be careful to find all the little pieces of foam that are now everywhere in your bilge.

You mean the pieces that like to get stuck under the float switch and keep the bulge running?

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by awthacker

You mean the pieces that like to get stuck under the float switch and keep the bilge running?

Ya, those and the tiny ones that like to get into and around the pump and clog it up so it burns out.

[SkunkBoat]

Originally Posted by awthacker

You mean the pieces that like to get stuck under the float switch and keep the bulge running?

they'll also get stuck in the pvc tube and in the drainage holes in the stringers. You'll be amazed what you can find if you start reaching your hand into dark places....every screw, nut, washer, sinker, hook, mussel, and crab claw that ever hit the deck and bounced left....