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  #1  
Unread 10-08-2011, 11:05 PM
Curapa Curapa is offline
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If you have it all the way down that far I would just start fresh. Grind off all of the old stuff and put down the new. It will probably be easier anyways.

Either way you don't want to use 5200 for a structural part. You may be thinking that the glass wrapped over the stringer will be enough but don't give it that much credit. 5200 has many great properties but shear strength is not one of them. You are gonna have to get familiar with epoxy glue, fillets and fairing anyways. Bite the bullet and get some epoxy supplies.
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  #2  
Unread 10-09-2011, 10:02 AM
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Curapa that bateau 2 link has some awesome info on there. Great link for someone getting started with this stuff. This is my first boat repair of this magnatude and Im just trying to do this the right way the first time. The previs owner just stacked a 1x4 on top of 1x6 and let her rip!!!!! LOL!!! so demo was very easy. Can i use the 1708 to glass in these stringers or do you recommend something else? Thanks for all your help
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  #3  
Unread 10-09-2011, 02:38 PM
Curapa Curapa is offline
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1708 would be great for that.
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  #4  
Unread 10-10-2011, 02:08 PM
bksah2 bksah2 is offline
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I was wondering the same thing when replaceing stringers ,,They allways say dont have any HARD SPOTS when replaceing them or your hull could blow apare while you are hitting the waves ,,,I could never understand what "they" meant by NO Hard Spots... Some things i read even says to leave a void between the hull and the bottom of the stringer while others have said lay down a heavey bead od 5200 construction adhes. ,,and i seen also where they dig out all the wood in the stringer and leave the fiberglass sides and fill the strings void up with the same stuff they use for the trasom ,, the hole stringer rebuild thing seems to be very very confuseing to me,,,, I Know we got some real fiberglass pros on here maybe we can come to a "THIS IS THE BEST WAY TO DO IT procedure" like what epoxy,,, what filler,, what mat,, etc ,,,,,With step by step instructions like fiberglass for dummies
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Unread 10-10-2011, 02:23 PM
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I'm no fiberglass pro, heck I wouldn't even make a fiberglass rookie. But I do know that the stringers are the strength in a non cored hull boat. Without stringers the boat would just crack apart to pieces as soon as it was put under any sort of load. From what I know teh stringers should be firmly atatched to the hull bottom to retain max strength and rigidity. I know BERTRAM and some others played around with hollow tabbed stringers, but many have replaced these with cored stringers due to flex and cracking issues with the tabbed stringers.
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  #6  
Unread 10-10-2011, 07:00 PM
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i have another question for you guys while we are talking about resin thickeners and glueing. Im gonna be use a polyester resin on this project just to get that cleared up. The guy who gave me this boat runs a cabinet shop and rips and planes hardwood for a living. I was in his shop today and the fine saw dust in piles is ridiculous!!!!!!why cant I sift my own "wood flour" from his batches of hardwood fine saw dust? and what should i be paying a yard for 1708? how many layers of 1708 should i put on my floor "deck" ?

Last edited by Kracker Jack; 10-10-2011 at 07:12 PM.
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  #7  
Unread 10-10-2011, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kracker Jack View Post
i have another question for you guys while we are talking about resin thickeners and glueing. Im gonna be use a polyester resin on this project just to get that cleared up. The guy who gave me this boat runs a cabinet shop and rips and planes hardwood for a living. I was in his shop today and the fine saw dust in piles is ridiculous!!!!!!why cant I sift my own "wood flour" from his batches of hardwood fine saw dust? and what should i be paying a yard for 1708? how many layers of 1708 should i put on my floor "deck" ?
I have no idea about wood flour, from the floor or store bought in the can. If it is dry,could be the same stuff. Try it on a test spot?? Then buy something you know will work. LOL. When you tally up the bill of materials and sweat you may think better of excursions into the unknown. Out of respect I will allow someone else to help/crush you with pricing.

Glad to see you made a choice on Resin. That topic gets ugly from time to time.. You could use chopped strand and cabosil for the wood free thickener solution.. What you have done so far is looking good. Keep it up.
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  #8  
Unread 10-10-2011, 07:29 PM
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Default Do you think

Wellcraft used any special techniques? Or just cut some plywood patterns and throw a liberal amount of glass at it?

There are so many ways to skin this cat, everyone that does any glasswork has an opinion, myself included. Those sites are great Curapa.
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  #9  
Unread 10-10-2011, 07:39 PM
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Ridge im gonna be honest with ya there wasnt any glass work unnder this floor that impressed me at all!!!!! Huge pin holes in the glass to the stringers, looped glass over the secondary stringers that allowed water to penetrate and hold water since the first day it was splashed back in 1974!!!! anything i do to this boat from this point on is gonna be better than what the heck it was. not trying to knock wellcraft but in the 70's the glass work at factory was terrible unless my boat was built on a friday
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