Wet Test

[THEFERMANATOR]

If it stops pisson you need to find out why. The pisser is fed off the exhaust cavity which is early on in the water flow. If you didn't get it over 3 grand then it could be t-stats though as they should still be in the equation then. The t-stats are mounted into plastic housiongs that are atatched to rubber diaphrams. When the throttle valve is in the slow speed position it puts water pressure to the t-stat covers which pushes the t-stats into there seats and allows them to regulate the temp. When teh throttel reaches a certain point it then reroutes that water from teh valve to the pisser and this takes the pressure away from the t-stat diaphrams which allows the housings to move away from the seats and then the water freely flows so that nothing regulates the temp except the water flowing through the heads. A common cause of the pisser stopping after the engine is up to temp and when you give it throttle is leaking head gaskets. It would be a good idea to retorque the heads just to be safe.

[reelapeelin]

Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR

If it stops pisson you need to find out why. The pisser is fed off the exhaust cavity which is early on in the water flow. If you didn't get it over 3 grand then it could be t-stats though as they should still be in the equation then. The t-stats are mounted into plastic housiongs that are atatched to rubber diaphrams. When the throttle valve is in the slow speed position it puts water pressure to the t-stat covers which pushes the t-stats into there seats and allows them to regulate the temp. When teh throttel reaches a certain point it then reroutes that water from teh valve to the pisser and this takes the pressure away from the t-stat diaphrams which allows the housings to move away from the seats and then the water freely flows so that nothing regulates the temp except the water flowing through the heads. A common cause of the pisser stopping after the engine is up to temp and when you give it throttle is leaking head gaskets. It would be a good idea to retorque the heads just to be safe.

Two thoughts...if the system is pressurized, would the leaking diverter cause a disruption in the flow?...would I see water leaking past the head gaskets if that?...and do you know the torque setting?...

And when I said not over 3 grand...pretty sure not, but additionally not sure tach is reading properly...it's a new teleflex...do you know for sure which setting it should be on

[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by reelapeelin

Two thoughts...if the system is pressurized, would the leaking diverter cause a disruption in the flow?...would I see water leaking past the head gaskets if that?...and do you know the torque setting?...

And when I said not over 3 grand...pretty sure not, but additionally not sure tach is reading properly...it's a new teleflex...do you know for sure which setting it should be on

It should be set for 12 pole which should be 5 or 6 on your tach. Those valves always leak a little it seems like. If the diverter valve is in wrong it can cause overheating problems as it will work in reverse. the heads should be torqued to 18-20 foot pounds starting in the center and working outward in a circuliar pattern. They are known to leak compression into the cooling system but not water into the cylinders.

[reelapeelin]

Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR

It should be set for 12 pole which should be 5 or 6 on your tach. Those valves always leak a little it seems like. If the diverter valve is in wrong it can cause overheating problems as it will work in reverse. the heads should be torqued to 18-20 foot pounds starting in the center and working outward in a circuliar pattern. They are known to leak compression into the cooling system but not water into the cylinders.

Thanks, Ferm...FINALLY I can set the freakin' tach!!...there IS joy in Mudville!!...and for the torque settings and pattern...I looked at them all around a couple of times and see no sign of leaking...should I torque anyway?...and I think I'll pull that diverter valve just to check it out...found sand in on t'stat housing today...that valve looks like it could hold some too...

She's pissin' better on the hose



But pisser STOPS and it runs hot at speed..don't know if you saw the other post about my local tech saying motor is mounted too hi and not getting enough water when on plane at speed...makes sense, although I REELY wanted it as high as I could get it, I think he's right...gonna try it tomorrow...

[THEFERMANATOR]

For an offshore boat I prefer to mount the engine a bit on the low side so the prop stays dug in when I trim it up to hold teh bow up in the snotty stuff. And with the OMC lower units they will suck air if you mount them just a bit to high, learned that one the hard way.

[reelapeelin]

Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR

For an offshore boat I prefer to mount the engine a bit on the low side so the prop stays dug in when I trim it up to hold teh bow up in the snotty stuff. And with the OMC lower units they will suck air if you mount them just a bit to high, learned that one the hard way.

Apparently I'm in the process of learning it as well...I was really hopeful of getting the extra top end and EFFICIENCY that comes w/having the foot outta the water...but we'll find out today...

[spareparts]

so who's idea was it to raise it up another hole ?