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#1
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after you get the hatch the way you want it, when you go to fasten it down, lay a couple of the foam noodles(cut to fit) across on the tank straps. i did this on mine and it cut down on the flex the will eventually lead to failure of the glass. it is good if it has to compress a little.
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#2
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i have a cuddy
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#3
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ridge, what do you mean by add the core ?
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#4
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Core = Plywood. If you go to the trouble of building a mold what you make is the female version so when you lay the glass in you are really making the topside of your lid. Like they build hulls from molds. Gelcoat,Glass,stringers or core, More glass. You might want to look into some of the ready made fiberglass or composite panels. I never priced them but I have seen them online. Then you need only worry about sealing the edges and fitment. Depending on what you can find you could use some fiberglass tape and a minimal amount of materials.
__________________
1996 -19' NV Flats 115 Mercury 4-stroke 1983 -20' Wellcraft Center Console 250 XS |
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#5
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ok thanks ridge, i will post pics when i get it done.
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#6
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After getting advice from Ridge and phat i decided to go for a completely new build of my 34"x35". gas tank hatch. so today i built the mold for hatch out of MDF it was actually very simple to do, i have a question regarding Duratec. i understand it is applied after i have waxed and sprayed the mold with PVA. is the Duratec meant to adhere to the first coat of Mat or is it also just to keep the Mat from sticking to the mold? and do i even need to use Duratec .. i will try to get molding putty and all the other supplts this weekend. And yes i know this thread is useless with out pics. i will be taking pics of my rebuild. thanks guys,
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#7
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no clue on the pva and duratec BUT if you have the clearance, a couple of 2" ribs made from ply strips glassed on the bottom on edge will REALLY stiffen the hatch.
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#8
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Quote:
__________________
1996 -19' NV Flats 115 Mercury 4-stroke 1983 -20' Wellcraft Center Console 250 XS |
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