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			#1  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Picked up an '88 20'CC with rotten transom; all else is solid. Got most of the wood out and plan on using Nidabond. Before you pour, is anything needed to prevent resin from running out at bottom of transom, if that makes sense. Haven't gotten down that far yet, just planning ahead.
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			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
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			When you get the wood out the way, take a rod and bend the end to have about a 2" 90 degree angle in it. Probing in the bottom and any other places, see if there are voids toward the front or sides. Making the angle slightly longer than the fill area makes it quicker to find holes or gaps. If you do find voids, you can pack some stuff in that general area to slow the hemorrhage of the fill material. One thing that worked for me was a scuff material designed for floor sanding (from HomeDepot or Lowes). Looks like woven glass. If I can access the site long enough I'll try to see if there are pictures of the stuff (so far unsuccessful). 
				__________________ '75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny | 
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			#3  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Go to this link and see post #65. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...?t=2808&page=7 
				__________________ '75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny | 
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			#4  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Looks great! I will be having to do mine soon also. The 76 V is showing all the typical signs of transom rot. I will be using the same stuff because of all the good reviews everyone says about it. Thanks!
		 
				__________________ 1976 Wellcraft V-20 Steplift w/1983 175 HP Johnson 1973 Sears 12 ft. V bottom w/1958 3 HP Evinrude "A boat is a hole in the water, surrounded by wood & fiberglass, into which one pours hard earned money into" | 
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			#5  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Hey tsubaki, checked the link you sent - lots of great info and pix. Couple of questions: you mention "pour & pack"...are you putting cloth in as you pour or shredding scrub pads as filler so as to use less resin? Also, the fiberglass panels you cut. Did you pour on both sides, encasing the panels, again to cut down on resin needed? The stuff is costly and I've been toying with ideas to save a few bucks but still have a good, solid transom.
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			#6  
			
			
			
			
			
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			I'm sorry the progression of that thread was so poor. That was the first time for me using a site and posting pictures and had the boat repairs going on too.  Yes the pour and pack was glass cloth and resin with the panels held in the center of the pour. The scuff material was used to dam voids to reduce hemorrhaging of the resin into open areas. Small pieces were also used as shims to keep the panels in place. 
				__________________ '75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny | 
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			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Hey Tsubaki, went back and read more of that link, your explaination of the process is pretty good. I was at work first time I looked and didn't read far enough. I've got an old deck boat in the yard that will need to be cut up for disposal and I'm pretty sure I can get some good "panels" from that. Between that and the glass cloth, I may be able to do this with 'bout 6 gals of resin. Thanks again for the great step-by-step.
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