Starter issue and leaky primer solenoid

[tsubaki]

I'd check the battery with a load tester to insure it's output capability, then make sure the connections were clean and tight, then check the battery cable for proper size and connections for any problems, even to the extent of bypassing it and using another source.
Had a 90 horse that would not engage but everything else told me it was fine, ended up being a partial break in the cable just as it exited the motor. Had a 70 horse that had a bad terminal eye solder at the battery connection, did the same thing. In both these instances it was low voltage/low current capability.
If everything else fails and tells you it's correct, then look at the solenoid for replacement, then the starter.
Many times the starters and trim unit pumps can be disassembled, blown with an air hose to remove accumulated debris, reassembled and they will work for several years before needing replacing.
Look at the air intake cover, the decals shows the correct positions for the choke/primer operation. Seems like all the way forward was choke/prime and all the way back was normal run. But I can't remember.

[smkinnan]

Originally Posted by tsubaki

I'd check the battery with a load tester to insure it's output capability, then make sure the connections were clean and tight, then check the battery cable for proper size and connections for any problems, even to the extent of bypassing it and using another source.
Had a 90 horse that would not engage but everything else told me it was fine, ended up being a partial break in the cable just as it exited the motor. Had a 70 horse that had a bad terminal eye solder at the battery connection, did the same thing. In both these instances it was low voltage/low current capability.
If everything else fails and tells you it's correct, then look at the solenoid for replacement, then the starter.
Many times the starters and trim unit pumps can be disassembled, blown with an air hose to remove accumulated debris, reassembled and they will work for several years before needing replacing.
Look at the air intake cover, the decals shows the correct positions for the choke/primer operation. Seems like all the way forward was choke/prime and all the way back was normal run. But I can't remember.

Hey brother, thank you as always. I think I am going to pull new battery cables in the boat.

Took the boat (and "new" engine) for its first run today. I think once I fix the start issue and the leaking soleniod this thing is going to be fine. The engine runs great. Very strong and responsive. It was fun to finally get out on the water after all the work we've done. I was a nervous wreck though. But it ran good.

[tsubaki]

Great!
So I take it the wire harness, start, choke and trim connections swapped over alright?
Water pump pissin good?
And please tell me you did clean the carbs!

[smkinnan]

Originally Posted by tsubaki

Great!
So I take it the wire harness, start, choke and trim connections swapped over alright?
Water pump pissin good?
And please tell me you did clean the carbs!

Yes, and everything fit great. The arjay is holding up great and the motor has plenty of power for this boat. I spent the day cleaning connections and replacing some of the smaller battery cables. A very noticable improvement although it didn't fix it completely. I'm gonna have a better look at the cables that run from the center console to the engine.

[tsubaki]

Do you still have the engine that was on the boat previous?
If the cable replacement and slightly lubing the starter shaft don't fix the problem, look at changing the solenoid using the one from the other motor and see if it improves.
Being it was a V6, they should have the same starter and solenoid.

[smkinnan]

Probably did have the the same starter solenoid but I sold that old motor. I ended up buying one but it doesn't appear to have fixed the problem. I am going to replace the long cables that run from the console to the motor. Any idea how to crimp the ends on battery cables? Is there a special tool for them?

[tsubaki]

With cables that size, I usually get a propane torch, flux and solder to do the job.
Clamp or vise the eyelet in the vertical position. Flux coat the cable and place into the eyelet, heat the eyelet with the torch forcing in the solder till it runs out the top.
Usually you'll need to file the eyelet to remove excess solder that ran out.