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#1
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Did you remove the thick resin on top of the stringers that filled the gap to the floor? or did you just put your resin on top or that?
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#2
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I removed all the old stuff. The stuff that was on my boat was sticky and a real mess to work around so I got rid of it all
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1981 V20 cuddy 2007 225 optimax http://budgetboattowing.com/ http://www.gardenstateyachtsales.com/ |
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#3
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definitely remove the old..sand down the surrounding area..mix up some new resin with cabosil and milled fibers then re-glass the whole thing....5200 sounds easy, but resin such as epoxy or vinyl ester is much more stronger than 5200...by a long shot.
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87 Fisherman 20 |
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#4
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this is what boat builders use
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...MA530+Adhesive http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...MA320+Adhesive |
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#5
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Thanks for all the input, got the lid off and to my surprise everything looks pretty good, the top of the transom has a small amount of rot, so I was thinking of cutting the bad wood out and using dowel pins to marry the old and new pieces together then reglassing? Then add some extra support for my T-top to plant into.
Any thought on using normal fiberglass resin vs. vinyl ester vs. epoxy? |
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#6
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For making new parts or cosmetic repairs, its OK...but for repairs to transoms and anywhere you need really good secondary bonding and it needs to be waterproof, I would not use anything but VE or Epoxy...especially when glassing over wood. Thats why cold molded wooden boats use epoxy, not polyester.
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87 Fisherman 20 |
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#7
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So VE is about $30 cheaper a gal than epoxy from a company in FL called US composites. Is it worth the extra money for epoxy?
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