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#1
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I'm like you, Stink...hearin' those things run is a rush...Pissed off dragster is right...only problem I know about that motor is a plastic gear in the auto-oiler is prone to failure...pre-mix the oil in one and I think it'll be the way to go...and w/a 175, go you will!!...
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'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha 
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#2
02-03-2011, 03:41 PM
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Thanks guys..I figured it couldnt be that difficult..just take my time and do it right. I know a top notch machinist as well. He has done all my engine blocks/ heads over the years.
I know about the gear as well. I wont own a motor thats not under a factory warranty with auto mix. Mix it in the tank and be done with it. Thanks again..anymore input is welcome for sure! Also since my FORCE is a 96' the controls will fit I think? They have merc conectors... Reel, I remember wasnt it you that sold a BM when you got the Honda? I remember wishing I could have bought it baaaaad. Got a buddy here with a 150 Rude on a 18 and we said it will run low 50's. I bet I can push 60 hard with a BM 175!! Not that I need to go that fast but running from weather sure wouldnt be as stressful like it is now loping along at 34
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Really, who ISNT better looking than Charlie?
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#3
02-03-2011, 04:53 PM
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Just a heads up, if you do go over recommended H.P.- You will have some serious issues with your insurance if you ever have to file a claim.......
Speakin of puttin sleeves in......I have a 175 Johnson Oceanrunner that needs one. Engine has 6-700hrs on it but needs either boring or sleeves/piston job. Aside from that, engine/lower unit well maintained and in fantastic shape - $500 will take it
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#4
02-03-2011, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
And sometimes it ain't that you run it at 50-60 mph...it's that you CAN when you want to Can't figure out your reference "BM"...?...Bad Mammerjammer?...LOL!!...
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'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha
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#5
02-03-2011, 07:19 PM
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Black max...thought it was you that had one for sale some time back...I remember it was a 150,,,?
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Really, who ISNT better looking than Charlie?
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#6
02-03-2011, 09:14 PM
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A 150 can be either a 2.0L, 2.4L, or 2.5L. The 2.0L 135/150's are the ones that sound like a pissed off dragster when they idle. The 2.5L is a solid performer, but from my experience is a THIRSTY pig of an engine. I had one of the 2.5L MERCURY 150 XRI's(same engine as a 175 carbed engine but was a fuel injected performance model) on my flats boat a few years back, and it would flat out haul A$$ when you got on it. I hit 60 a few times with it on there. The downside was it burned about 17GPH at WOT, BUT burned 12 GPH at 3800-4000 cruising. I've got an old 81 150 2.0L on an old bass boat and that thing sounds WICKED, but only burns 4GPH at a 3800 RPM cruise. If you could find an old 2.4L 175 though, that would be teh ticket. It will most likely be a chrome bore engine, but you can have them slleeved with steel sleeves if needs be. Check screamandfly as they LIKE there MERCS over there. And I believe your controls will work, but you'll probably have to change your tach out as MERCS are 12 poles and most FORCE engines are 20 pole.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD  AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 
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#7
02-03-2011, 10:24 PM
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be hard to beat a 2L merc for what your doing
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#8
02-04-2011, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
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'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha
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#9
02-04-2011, 07:20 AM
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stink, the biggest problem i've had in working on outboards is corrosion. the mechanics are pretty straight forward(on carbed ones). timing issues can be hard to get straight, but the innards aren't bad. the ones that are ran in salt are a collection of bolts waiting to be broke off. mercs do seen to be easier. also big shrimpin is an excellent parts source.
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#10
02-04-2011, 08:41 AM
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Ferm, your right the 150 is made in different liter configurations. I like the 150 2.0L and all the 2.4L because they are light. Ditch the oil infection as mentioned, then you won't be looking for a place to install the remote oil tank. The electronics and link and sink seem like smoke and mirror stuff initially, buy a manual and you realize it is not that bad. On a carbed motor the only part that cannot be thouroughly tested with a volt/ohm meter is the switch boxes. Aside from that the Stator, Trigger, Coils, Rectifier/Regulator, Spark plugs, maybe an idle stabilizer box (which I would discard) are easily tested and that is the entire ignition/charging system on a carbed Merc V-6. When you remove the cowl it may look like speghetti but all the wires are color coded, it is real easy.
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