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#1
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Quote:
Most of those 40 years I've had galvanized trailers. I've owned galvanized trailers for over 10 years, that were probably 10 or more years old when I got them and didn't put that kind of money into them (had a V20 sitting on it, too). You need to wash the trailer every time it goes in, install buddy bearings and keep them lubed, wire brush and touch up galvanized paint when it needs it (maybe every few years). Do some basic maintenance and a galvanized trailer can easily last 20 years. I've got another that's 12 years old now and looks like it will go another 10 easy. Galvanized definitely pulls better than aluminum, just because it is heavier and stiffer. It's more work, but I think it is a better trailer if you keep it up. |
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#2
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guess this is why baskin robbins has 31 flavors, i've been trailer boating for 35 years and will never have a galvanized after getting an aluminum. we might have different salt water down here but i relpaced leaf springs every 2 to 3 years. and i rinsed everytime i got home. the killer is when you dunk in the morning and it sets in the fl sun for 8-12 hours. i got tired of cross members rotting out and roller shafts giving out. i went al bunk with torsion axle with accu-lube and solved a lot of my problems. i also bought a 7500# trailer for a v-20. it was only $250 more at the time(different axels). as far the difference in pulling, couldn't really tell a difference. i did have a problem with the al floating when the boat was off loaded, but i put a piece of 3" pvc with concrete on each rail and solved that problem. i launch about 50 to 60 times a year, but my trip tothe ramp is only about 10 miles roundtrip. i've also pulled to the keys 4 or 5 times ,1600 miles round trip.
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#3
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I tried to find a used one when I needed an upgrade, the used ones that didn't need fixing were the same price as new, the used ones that needed fixing up were no better than what I had.
I priced fixing my old one and figured about $1300 in parts plus my time to do the work, and then I still had a 25 year old trailer. Good luck with your search.
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*************************************** Stay Safe! Sold - 1984 V-20 Cuddy with a 2003 Johnson 140 hp gas sippin 4-stroke. 1995 Ranger 250C with a 2015 Suzuki 300 hp 4-stroke. |
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#4
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It's a Ford vs Chevy debate. A lot comes down to owner maintainence. Something to watch for on aluminum is did the manufacturer place gaskets between the aluminum and any galvinized brackets. If not you should. The steel will rot out the aluminum when sitting at the ramp all day soaked in salt. Also full square tube steel is gonna rot out a lot faster than c channel. Also are the fasteners stainless? I'd rather by a used trailer with a good solid frame and spend a grand on it replacing everything than something thats brand new and shiny, but is gonna rot out in 5-6 years of use.
ps Be careful replacing bolts that are under heavy load such as axle u bolts with stainless. Something that needs to be torqued is a lot safer using galvinized bolts.
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1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 Last edited by bradford; 01-21-2011 at 04:14 PM. |
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#5
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good point bradford, i actually used 4" cutoff wheel disc as a gasket between axle and frame.
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