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#1
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I like my old carbed Yamahas and have found them to be reliable. Except for the corrosion issues they are solid motors as far as I can tell. That said I have run into many people who feel the exact opposite and in almost all cases their opinion was caused by having a bad mechanic try to fix a simple problem by throwing parts at it. I have bought two different motors for cheap money because the owners could not get them to run right even after having spent hundreds of dollars on "professional" repairs. I got both running for less than $200. Ferm and Spare and some other guys on this site seem to be able to diagnose these things in their sleep but for everyone of them there seems to be a dozen so called pros that I wouldn't trust to even change my spark plugs.
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#2
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I have had 3 Yamaha now 2 carb and my new to me 4 stroke
The first one was a 175 and a great motor!! The issue was the trim motor rotting and the shift rod, it was a 1989 and the shift rod was fixed after 1994 I also had a power pack go bad but thats it The 2nd was a 150 Yamaha 1994 that i bought and it came with heat issues and i never kept it, but if I had today and knew what i know now i bet i could have fixed it. I have nothing to say about the 4 stroke as I have had it ine season and man what a machine!! All makes have had and will always have some problems! Ask 100 people and get 100 opinions! Parts can be $$$ and if you are not handy you are going to pay a guy $$$ to maintain! Get a book and ask questions here or on other sites and you be surprised how easy most fixes can be. I have had Mers, OMC, Yamaha and they all have had there problems Good Luck!
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#3
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That mechanic that tried to steer you from a Yamaha was meerly trying to keep you in a relm that he was comfortable with and probably could make the most profit. Chances are he had the parts in stock and such. I own a 2001 Yamaha 150 ox66 saltwater oil and fuel injected model that I bought used in 2006 with 52 hours on the clock for $6500. I now have 660 hours on it. I run 3100 rpms @ 30 mph making roughly 3 mpg swinging a well worn 23 pitch prop. Top speed 41 mph @ 4800 rpms. I don't dog this motor but I run it in some extremely shallow water (sometimes no water) and use all it has to offer on occasion. My hull has a short tunnel at the transom that allows my prop shaft to be even with the keel. My only problem was the screen at the bottom of the fuel pump that feeds the injector pump plugged up. Cleaned it myself and its been "fish on" since then. Yamaha has a top notch product.
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#4
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I have two 86 150 Yamahas on my 250 Sportsman. As far as electrical problems the only problems electrical i have had are the oil injection black boxes. First one tank started overflowing and then the other tank on the other motor began overflowing. We ended up trashing the whole injection system and going to premix. Probably a good thing to do anyways. Other than that they are very reliable motors. They never skip a beat and as long as they have fuel they will run. (i probably just jinxed myself, i will let yall know tomorrow if they still run)
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1983 V-20 capsized. . . . in the garage. |
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#5
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my 87 did the same on the motor tank, i had to buy a new float for $130 yamaha parts don't come c heap!! but i still own one
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#6
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Hi jasoncooo I dont want to steal this thread but can you give a step by step of how you removed the oil injection,, I know yamaha's oil injection system is more invoeled then merc evinrude and johnson ..I think when you get to disconnecting the alarms is where it becomes a pain ,,also did you replace the pump or use a home made blank
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#7
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When i de-oil-injection-systemized my outboards i just unplugged all the connections and hoses then pitched the tanks out. I also had to take the oil injection pump off and take the worm screw gear drive out then put the pump back on. I plugged all unused hoses with 1/4 bolts and clamps
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1983 V-20 capsized. . . . in the garage. |
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