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#1
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I COULD be wrong..so don't take this as gospel.. but....
On my old boat, which had an I/O setup there were 2 water pumps.. one in the lower unit which pumped raw water to the heat exchanger, and a second on the engine, which circulated fresh water from the heat exchanger through the engine. That pump was located on a bracket on the front of the engine and was driven by a v-belt running off the crankshaft dampener pulley. Not sure if your set-up is the same, but to me it would seem like the logical place to start looking. ![]() PS...Follow the hoses from the heat exchanger to your engine.. one of them probably goes to the pump.
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1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
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#2
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Quote:
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1987 V20 1996 Jonhson 150 OceanRunner |
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#3
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1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 |
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#4
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Unfortunately the new temp sensor works just fine (checked with laser thermometer). My boat didn't even have a belt until I replaced the faulty voltage regulator with the new alternator kit.
So, I checked the outdrive pump works well (disconnected hose and raw water pumps in just fine). I hear the internal coolant pumps on these 170's can fail. So my question is what type of effort and money would it take to fix - if this is indeed the issue? Any insight here is appreciated. |
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