Trailer Bearings

[RidgeRunner]

Removed the axle, measured and cut the spindles off at the weld. No rust on the inside of the galvanized tubular axle. Need parts. To be continued>>

[phatdaddy]

RR, when you replace the spindles. see if you can get the kind that has a lube system that delivers the grease through the spindle to the rear between the seal & the bearing. all buddy bearings do is put grease on top of the castle nut. i believe it's called Acculube System. you can actually change grease and not take the hub assy apart.

[RidgeRunner]

I like that type also PD. Just need to find two with matching hubs. I screwed up when I purchased a new set of hubs for a different trailer. It has the grease fitting on the end of the spindle like you said but the hubs are not long enough on the inboard side for the seal to cover the hole where the grease comes out. Ask me how I discovered that. The axle was made by Tie Down Engineering and I believe they call their system "Posi Lube." Looking thru a couple of catalogs West wants a pretty penny for the galvanized hubs that Tie Down makes. That repair will need to wait for another day.
I know of a trailer manufacturer that I am hoping will ease the blowon the parts I need today.

[chumbucket]

The trick I've always used with Bearing Buddies;
Before installing the BB, take a pointed punch tool and just inside the hub where the BB will be seated, give it a whack in a couple of spots to create a burr. Now when you tap the BB into the hub, the burrs will grab and keep it in place.

[Blue_Runner]

RR thanks for the pics. Always wondered what that might look like. Thankfully I've never seen it in person.

Destroyer, I'd throw all 4 eventually. It sucked when I'd get to the beach and have to go to Wally World just so I'd be able to put the boat in the water without soaking the bearings in saltwater. Then after I'd pull the boat out of the water I'd have to tap them back out as to not throw them out while towing. Made a mess with the grease slinging out the hubs too. I think it was a combination of my hubs being a bit wallowed out and the weight of BB's themselves. Oh and probably the tires not being balanced exactly right too. Doesn't really matter. I gave up and love the grease caps. It forces me to take everything apart to re-grease periodically and I get to see how things look. I'm happy. CB - like that idea! Where were you with that suggestion 2 - 3 years ago!?!?

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by chumbucket

The trick I've always used with Bearing Buddies;
Before installing the BB, take a pointed punch tool and just inside the hub where the BB will be seated, give it a whack in a couple of spots to create a burr. Now when you tap the BB into the hub, the burrs will grab and keep it in place.

DAMN THAT'S A GREAT IDEA!! Saves a ton of money and frustration I'm sure. I've actually been tempted to tack weld them in place with a TIG unit, but then I figured out that if I ever had to change the bearings it would create a whole new set of problems...I like that idea and will start doing it from now on. Thanks!!!

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by RidgeRunner

I like that type also PD. Just need to find two with matching hubs. I screwed up when I purchased a new set of hubs for a different trailer. It has the grease fitting on the end of the spindle like you said but the hubs are not long enough on the inboard side for the seal to cover the hole where the grease comes out. Ask me how I discovered that. The axle was made by Tie Down Engineering and I believe they call their system "Posi Lube." Looking thru a couple of catalogs West wants a pretty penny for the galvanized hubs that Tie Down makes. That repair will need to wait for another day.
I know of a trailer manufacturer that I am hoping will ease the blowon the parts I need today.

If you have a drill press and a tap and die set it's easy enough to just measure where you want the greese to come out of the spindle and drill a 1/16" center hole and a side hole. Enlarge and tap the end of the center hole, screw a zerk fitting in and you're good to go. You'll still have to remove the greese cap to add greese, but when you do it will be through the zerk fitting into the center void between the inner and outer races. When you see the greese coming through the front bearing you know that it's filled.

[Blue_Runner]

Another fine idea! Too bad my capabilities are not that technologically advanced. I'm just going to get an air rachet instead.

[RidgeRunner]

Originally Posted by Destroyer

If you have a drill press and a tap and die set it's easy enough to just measure where you want the greese to come out of the spindle and drill a 1/16" center hole and a side hole. Enlarge and tap the end of the center hole, screw a zerk fitting in and you're good to go. You'll still have to remove the greese cap to add greese, but when you do it will be through the zerk fitting into the center void between the inner and outer races. When you see the greese coming through the front bearing you know that it's filled.

I never thought of making my own, Great idea, but using the drill press with the spindles still welded onto the axle might be tricky. I found some spindles called EZLube and they have that arrangement. Wish I could do that with the good axle so the two match. I may be too anal, which is not always a bad thing when welding on an axle. What is the best way to line up the spindles, v-block or string it out using the hub face and axle as a reference? Stick with 7018 rod is what I was planning on using, waiting on parts. Any suggestions?

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by RidgeRunner

I never thought of making my own, Great idea, but using the drill press with the spindles still welded onto the axle might be tricky.

I only suggested a drill press so that it's a straight hole down the center..
You can do it with a hand drill if you're really careful.

What is the best way to line up the spindles, v-block or string it out using the hub face and axle as a reference?

I have no idea... Obviously you want the spindle to be 90 degrees from the frame so it tracks correctly, but I don't know what you're welding it to. If you have an axle stub then I'd think that, yes, a "v-block' is the way to go. Tack it in place, remove the block and let fly. Be careful to keep the welds short so you don't pull the spindle off center.

Stick with 7018 rod is what I was planning on using, waiting on parts. Any suggestions?

7018 is the stronger rod.. (70,000 lbs tensile as opposed to 60,000 for 6011). Depends on your skill level I think. I like 6011 because it has better penetration than 7018. It's great on rusted/painted parts.... and you can run it reversed polarity, which you can't do with 7018. But 7018 gives you a better looking finished weld and you can just drag it whereas with 6011 you have to keep the stick away from the metal. Straight in and J stroking it always seems to work best for me. That's a really rough call. If the metals' clean I'd go with the 7018. If it's dirty/rusted then the 6011 would be my choice. You could also use 6010 which is a fast freeze rod (which means the puddle cools and hardens much faster than 7018). Useful on vertical welds.

Don't forget..when welding vertical from bottom to top (which is how any experienced welder should), don't be hesitant to move a half an inch out of the puddle to allow the molten metal to harden. It makes it easier to run a consistent bead. When doing it, move upward (out of the puddle) so that you cover up any chicken scratch that is created. It makes stick welding in vertical positions (especially the root pass) much easier. It takes a few times to get it right, but you'll use it for a lifetime once you figure it out.

Hope this helps a little...