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#1
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The jack plate just allows you to add the 25 with out filing the transom, but if you are going new, you will not need.
Tanks are stock and one size I sold my V20 3 years ago, and bought a 23' Sea Ox wa, thats what I just put the 225 4 stroke on, and it weights 600 pounds +!! Not close for a V20! IMO your 225 is way over kill, and not needed, a 150 will have all the power you will ever need. with out the weight and gas your going to use. Also make sure you get a good bilge pump and a second one for back up, that boat is before self bailing decks and all water goes to the bilge. Last unless you are a real good glass guy, I would go from the inside and leave the out side alone. Or use the pourable stuff. I am not a glass guy at all so I am no real help there. Good Luck
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#2
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Thanks macojoe, I was concerned about cutting the outer skin and the more research I've done I think your right, it's not the way to go. To get to the inner is a lot of work but seems the correct way if doing ply replacement. Brielly also suggested pourable and he is pleased with his own results using it. I am grateful for your thoughts, I'm glad to be here amongst experience and just want to get it right. The 225 was a steal at 2k with all controls, gauges, SST prop and low hours. I was looking for 150 - 175, but no luck combined with slight compulsive disorder lead to the ficht. I hope its not too heavy for the boat in the waves!. The back of the boat seems very open to water from rear, is there a mod to improve that or not necessary? I see people doing all kinds of stuff with closed cell foam and wondered if I could improve rear buoyancy in any way by using some in the side bilges. I will definitely set up a couple of big pumps to be safe, any recommendations?
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