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  #11  
Unread 06-25-2010, 10:15 PM
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phatdaddy phatdaddy is offline
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blu, go over to classic mako and check out some of those rebuilds, should answer a lot of material questions for you.
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  #12  
Unread 06-30-2010, 07:28 PM
cricket cricket is offline
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blue, idid a i/o to outboard re fit i had some bad stiingers to i used marine plywood glassed together then more glass u can use liquid nail to hold lam to gether
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  #13  
Unread 07-01-2010, 08:17 AM
nymack66 nymack66 is offline
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Please post the questions or the direction you are going in regards to the stringer replacements. If you are going to use wood let me know. I have NO experience with stringers. I will recommend you read through some of these restoration posts.
I found this one that seems to cover exactly what you are doing please check it out.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=237215
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  #14  
Unread 07-01-2010, 12:49 PM
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Dang Blu don't get mad. Which question?
Stringers- Use Marine Plywood, A/C Fir or Composites. I do not think you will need to double up for the entire length you could get to 9' plus by scabbing a piece alongside and laminating it up with maybe a foot or two of overlap. The 17 looks a lot different than the 20' as the 20's have no center stringer.
What you have done so far looks good.
The piece of floor you cut out- You could flip it and go for the rotten wood from the bottom of the floor. That is what I did. You need a large flat table to work on and once you get all the wood out and the bottom side ground out you can replace with similar thickness wood or composite. I did not go back with small blocks of wood. I like the technique of drilling 3/8" holes every 4 to 6" in larger pieces of core, and weighing it down into two layers of 1.5 oz mat. Let it cure and then grind and glass to encapsulate the core (matt or 9 oz cloth would do the trick). My boat has a full liner so I removed the liner and flipped it to replace my floor.
I would replace the bulkhead that shows any sign of rot and would consider replacing all the stringers. I did not and I now regret that decision.
I was not aware that Wellcraft used 24oz mat? I did have a bulkhead that Wellcraft did not glass in the front of my center console. My boat had 24oz or heavier roven layed into mat on all the stringers and most of the liner was done with the chopper gun.
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  #15  
Unread 07-01-2010, 01:15 PM
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hey blu sorry just got to reading on your floor around the edges, glue and screw a board under the old floor, leaving half sticking out to screw your new floor too. in mine i used treated decking material under the floor and glued with liquid nails and stainless screws counter sunk. the decking boards i didn't worry about glassing due to they were treated and under the deck they will out last my owning the boat since the non treated floor lasted 32 yrs i won't keep it another 30 plus yrs. support that board to the hull if needed such as pieces of treated 2x4 blocks wedged between the deck board and hull. if you wish i can take a pic of a made up example in one of my projects. i've been so busy working on my 22ft deck boat. i'm installing all new stringers and flooring in it. or you can PM me you number i'll call ya we can talk about the flooring some.
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