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  #1  
Unread 02-18-2010, 09:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lumberslinger178 View Post
Your rite skools it was epoxy ... I know it will out last me tho



I made one out of plywood but couldnt get it to hold any gas...
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Unread 02-18-2010, 10:28 PM
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looks good!! just becareful when using foam, i have know others to lift floors, warp hulls as it expanded to much.

but you sound like you know what your doing, keep up the good work!1
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Unread 03-27-2010, 09:54 PM
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well it's been a while but I got some more work done on the boat today. I cleaned up the underside of the floor. cut out some new wood. I glued it in with resin thickened with West System 403. then I added a piece of 1/4" aluminum where I will mount the drivers seat. Then I rolled on a layer of woven roving. I ran out of resin near the end so I will have to finish tomorrow. I need to get this done it has taken entirely too long.
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Unread 05-11-2010, 09:09 PM
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the floor is finally in!!! It has been a very busy spring so far. getting any work done on my own boat has been hard to come by. But I'm almost done. I got a smoking deal on some underwater lights. More pics of them will be soon.
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Unread 05-11-2010, 09:22 PM
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Nice! What did you end up using to coat the top of the floor?
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Unread 05-12-2010, 11:38 AM
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Thanks. I used Interlux brightside polyurethane with some awlgrip non skid particles mixed in. They make a nonskid paint called interdeck but they didn't have the color I wanted. I'm going to apply a second coat tonight.
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Unread 05-12-2010, 04:43 PM
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Sweet looking deck!!! Lots of work and care there...and it shows.. Well Done!!
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Unread 05-12-2010, 05:46 PM
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Can you explain the process used to pull out and repair the deck?

How hard is it to get the deck out once the perimeter is cut. Are there any mechanical fasteners to remove?

When putting the deck back in, how is it fastened to the stringers?

How is the gap from the saw blade repaired, filled?

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Unread 05-16-2010, 09:15 PM
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Curt,
I cut the floor out using a sawzall being careful not to cut into the stringers. The floor was bonded to the stringers with some kind of adhesive that I had to cut where ever I could reach with the saw. Than I just used some prybars and some muscle to get it out. When I reinstalled the floor I epoxied strips of 1/2 " plywood about 3" wide to the existing edge of the floor in the boat with half the width sticking out for the new floor to lay on. when I glassed the new wood to the floor I made the wood 1 1/2" smaller than the skin so it would sit flush to the tabs I epoxied to the boat. I used West six ten epoxy in the calk tubes to apply to the top of all the stringers and bulkheads to bond to the floor. after that set up I ground the fiberglass about 2" on either side of the seam. I laid down 2 layers of glass. Then sanded it then some filler to smooth it then more sanding. Then paint. If I had to do it again I would pull the rubrail, seperate the cap from the hull, then replace all the rotten wood in the floor,transom,and fordeck all at once.
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Unread 05-17-2010, 08:31 AM
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Hey Captpete13
Nice work.
Can you tell me your reasoning why you placed the new tank back in the old position in the boat.
Wouldn't it been better to swap the fishbox and the tank position?
I'm thinking of better weight distributuion with the fuel tank forward more.
What say you?
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