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			#1  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			Use a scuff pad to deglaze the primer and go from there. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			You will tell real quick if there is any solvent problems between the primer and paint. It will crows foot or blister, chances are almost excellent no problems will occur. 
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	'75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny  | 
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			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			 What do you think about drying time for the primer before finish coat?
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
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			#3  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			Usually, if you can put your hand on it and not have it stick to you it will work. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			Normally either using a scuff pad or water sanding (or both) will let you sand between the suggested drying time. If when sanding, if it sticks, becomes gummy, it's not cured enough to sand. One thing about paints, primers, resins and epoxies is if it has a glaze or skim coat on it, it takes a little longer to cure out. Scratching it or sanding it increases the cure rate (makes it quicker). The Zinc Chromate I've used usually is good after 24hrs to be sanded, 45 minutes or so for repaint. Keep in mind, we have high temps and humidity, which increases drying rate. 
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	'75 Cuddy with '00 Johnson Ocean Pro 150 horse Benny  | 
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			#4  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
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			Thanks again.  I waited 48 hours on the zinc chromate primer, painted the lower last evening after a light sanding.  The Mercury paint bomb worked without a problem, no solvent issues and only one run on the lower part of the mid, AKA operator error.  I had just enough paint to cover the lower with two coats and the lower 5 inches of the mid with one and three quarter coats, thus the run.  I will give it 48 hours and put it back together.  Cross another one off the list... 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	 
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