Painting the Lower Unit

[THEFERMANATOR]

I use those plastic cleaning wheels that are diamond embedded for cleaning the old paint off. They work great and last a long time. Also make sure and use a grease and wax remover after cleaning it before you apply the primer. I use PREP-ALL from AUTOZONE for cleaning. Apply your primer with light coats to avoid runs. I persoanlly let it dry for about 30 minutes to an hour and then begin laying down my color. I've never sanded the primer on the ones that I have done and haven't had any problems. Also I use engine enamel for the lower units as it is a tougher paint, but it will fade pretty fast in the sunlight.

[RidgeRunner]

Thanks for the replies. I like the idea of using the small round scotch brite pads for removing the paint. If it were anything but a complete half a$$ paint job in the first place it may have been necessary. I really like the idea of not having to sand after the primer. One less step will save some time.

[RidgeRunner]

As one crital part was MIA.

There will definitely be a sanding stage after the primer. Got ready to spray the final color, shook the can for a good two minutes, popped the top off the can and no nozzle to be found. A 30 minute search thru all my junk and not even one matching nozzle.
The can of primer says to recoat within 1 hour or wait a week?
Is this right? If so I guess I get to sit back and watch the paint dry.
Any opinions welcome.

[tsubaki]

Use a scuff pad to deglaze the primer and go from there.
You will tell real quick if there is any solvent problems between the primer and paint. It will crows foot or blister, chances are almost excellent no problems will occur.

[RidgeRunner]

Originally Posted by tsubaki

Use a scuff pad to deglaze the primer and go from there.
You will tell real quick if there is any solvent problems between the primer and paint. It will crows foot or blister, chances are almost excellent no problems will occur.

What do you think about drying time for the primer before finish coat?

[tsubaki]

Usually, if you can put your hand on it and not have it stick to you it will work.
Normally either using a scuff pad or water sanding (or both) will let you sand between the suggested drying time.
If when sanding, if it sticks, becomes gummy, it's not cured enough to sand.
One thing about paints, primers, resins and epoxies is if it has a glaze or skim coat on it, it takes a little longer to cure out. Scratching it or sanding it increases the cure rate (makes it quicker).
The Zinc Chromate I've used usually is good after 24hrs to be sanded, 45 minutes or so for repaint. Keep in mind, we have high temps and humidity, which increases drying rate.

[RidgeRunner]

Thanks again. I waited 48 hours on the zinc chromate primer, painted the lower last evening after a light sanding. The Mercury paint bomb worked without a problem, no solvent issues and only one run on the lower part of the mid, AKA operator error. I had just enough paint to cover the lower with two coats and the lower 5 inches of the mid with one and three quarter coats, thus the run. I will give it 48 hours and put it back together. Cross another one off the list...