full transom original v 20?

[bcraigan]

Hope to move to a bracketed dual console some day. I could see owning a few of these things... ;)

[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by bcraigan

Hope to move to a bracketed dual console some day. I could see owning a few of these things... ;)

Check with BYGRACEALONE and see if he still has his.

[Bygracealone]

Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR

Check with BYGRACEALONE and see if he still has his.

Thanks for looking out for me Ferm! :-)

[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by Bygracealone

Thanks for looking out for me Ferm! :-)

Least I can do man. How's the HYDRA-SPORT doin? I should be whipped for not using mine, been spending all of my time on FRANKENBURB.

[Bygracealone]

Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR

Least I can do man. How's the HYDRA-SPORT doin? I should be whipped for not using mine, been spending all of my time on FRANKENBURB.

Hey Ferm,

The other day, I decided to work on the Hydra. I've been frustrated because I swapped the motors with the V20 and I got the installs all done last Spring/Summer. Got the 225 to start with no problems on the V20, but for some reason, I wasn't getting any juice to the motor on the Hydra. I traced a bunch of wires and everything looked right, but it just wasn't working, so I gave up for a while (like a year!). Well, a couple weeks ago I decided to grab a beer and get on the boat and just think things through. I spent a couple hours tracing wires again, with no success. BUT THEN, I decided to mess around with the control, shifting the motor back and forth and trying to put it in neutral. Well, in doing this, the stupid button for putting the motor in neutral popped up and wouldn't you know it, that was the problem. After that, the ignition switch sent juice to the motor.

So, all that to say, I'm almost there. I have a couple of wires to some gauges on the instrument panel that I need to hook up along with soldering one of the purple wires on the ignition switch. After getting rid of about 15 or so more gallons of old fuel, I should be good to go!

Sorry for hijacking the thread, but Ferm asked ;-) Thanks for asking buddy...

[bcraigan]

Grace, Tried to respond to you but it said your pm's were full.

[bcraigan]

OH and no worries about the thread, glad it turned into more than the original question...

[Bygracealone]

Originally Posted by bcraigan

Grace, Tried to respond to you but it said your pm's were full.

Sorry about that. I fixed it ;-) Feel free to resubmit it if you'd like.

Steve

[cterrebonne]

from experience with my conversion. i believe that the full transoms that came with sea drives are beefy enough and had knees to handle the weight. where as my v-20 was a I/O conversion. the transom i find is too thin for what i wanted to do. therefore i need to thicken it and add knees and she should be fine. now my bracket was 215 lbs and i had a 3 litre looper. so about 700 and some change off the transom. It flexed a little but enough to worry me and make cracked in the corners of the transom hatches. If you have I/O it will work out fine to add knees because you have that whole area to work.

[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by cterrebonne

from experience with my conversion. i believe that the full transoms that came with sea drives are beefy enough and had knees to handle the weight. where as my v-20 was a I/O conversion. the transom i find is too thin for what i wanted to do. therefore i need to thicken it and add knees and she should be fine. now my bracket was 215 lbs and i had a 3 litre looper. so about 700 and some change off the transom. It flexed a little but enough to worry me and make cracked in the corners of the transom hatches. If you have I/O it will work out fine to add knees because you have that whole area to work.

The 85+ sea-drives have beefy transoms, my 84 has a flimsy transom in it and couldn't have handled a V-6.