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#1
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looks great man
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#2
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Looking good BR.....suprised that Walmart didn't have the pump you needed, or Gander Mtn, or Bass Pro (easy drive to either from your crib).
Let me know when you figure out the fish, I want to learn too.
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*************************************** Stay Safe! Sold - 1984 V-20 Cuddy with a 2003 Johnson 140 hp gas sippin 4-stroke. 1995 Ranger 250C with a 2015 Suzuki 300 hp 4-stroke. |
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#3
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OK, I have to ask, why did you have to insulate the live well, last time I fished on Moultrie for stripers, we had a problem with the bait tank being warmer than the water(we were killing shad when we put them in the lake). Being a salt water guy, I wondered why they wern't using raw water from the lake rather than the complicted filter/charcol/ screen system just to recirculate water that was warmer than the air or the lake.
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#4
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Spare first, I'm not the pro...Reel is the pro! You could probably get by without the fancy tank in the winter but insulation becomes extra important in the summer.
In the summer if the water in the tank gets too warm it will kill the shad. To combat this you need to insulate the tank as well as either add ice or some type of frozen water bottle to keep the water cool. Additionally the surface temps on the lake are much warmer and contain less O2 than the deeper cooler water, which is why the stripers go deep in the summer to begin with. Reel said you need to get the baits down quick in the summer so they'll be able to stay alive long enough to entice Mr. Linesides. If you try to fish them on top in the warm water they die quickly. I wouldn't think the shad would die going from warm to cold because the colder water should have more oxygen but maybe the sudden temp change just shocks them? So that is water temp, now as you mentioned you have to worrry about the filtration and controlling the chlorine, ammonia, foaming, o2 content and sluffed off scales. Which is why you need the filtration system, an additive to remove chlorine (from using tap water or adding ice) and something to help slime and harden the scales like rock salt. I'm learning and hopefully if I ever get this keepalive filter I ordered a long time ago I'll report back with some actual experience on this topic.
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1994 Wellcraft V21 |
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#5
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Spare, Flyfishin saw this post and reminded me to also add that we are going to be catching the shad in high rock lake and fishing in Badin lake. Another good reason for it to be a self-contained system.
I neglected to mention that.
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1994 Wellcraft V21 |
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#6
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More to come on this project....Fly has the tank DONE and now we need to play around with the aerator placement before gluing it in place. It comes with suction cups but I can't see those holding for more than a minute....I figure we'll use the suction cups to test the placement by putting a dozen or so shad in the tank and see about where the discharge should point. Chime in here Reel but I'm assuming place it off center to get a "swirl" going. Also not too close to the side such that they jam up and hurt their little noses. Once the optimal placement is found I will glue it in place with aquarium glue as Reel suggested.
P.S. Went jug fishing over the weekend. Only 8 jugs and 8 channel cats. Biggest went 8 ish lbs. Good times!
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1994 Wellcraft V21 |
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#7
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Quote:
BTW...you were wise not to use the suction cups...they hold the pump off the bottom just enough for the herring/shad to get their noses under and can't get out and they die... Hey Spare...I've used my "self-contained" tank in saltwater as well...all the salties think they gotta have fresh water pumpin' in/outta the tank, so gotta deal w/all the plumbing...w/a self-contained tank, all the water is filtered and aerated so all you need to go to the tank is 12 volts...much easier...
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'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha |
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