Unable to turn motor

[steplift20]

what you should do next is
1st pump grease into the fitting on the shaft[then try to move the motor] still dont move
2nd get out the tourch and heat the shaft and as your heating it rock the motor left and right until it breaks loose, it might take some time and also shoot some penertrating oil on the top of the shaft, what i did was install another grease fitting on the top cause no grease would ever come out from the top bot you have to be careful because when i turned the motor it hit the fitting but i had a flush mount fitting that i installed and everything worked out+

[Carl]

I pumped the grease in and tried to move it with no success yesterday. I also put some penetrating oil on the top and hope it works. I am about to go check on it again. I think the 2nd grease fitting is a great idea. I will try the heat idea also.

Do you think a benzomatic type of plumbers torch is hot enough, or is oxyacetelyne needed?

I'll let you know how it all works out.

Thanks

Carl

[tsubaki]

Normally it's the tilt tube that causes the trouble when the motor won't turn by way of the steering.
Did you disconnect the arm from the steering that goes to the motor yoke (or whatever it's called)?

[Carl]

tsubaki - you just hit the nail on the head. That is one thing I did not do yesterday and the first thing today. I disconnected the steering arm from the yoke or tiller or whatever it is called and the motor turned smoothly. The problem is in the tilt tube.

The steering arm will not budge from within the tilt tube. I again applied grease in the fitting but not much more. I did get the waterpump replaced, the lower unit back on the motor (with a little help from my wife) and fired her up and sent the blue fogging oil smoke throughout the neighborhood.

How do I go about fixing a stuck steering arm in the tilt tube??

Thanks

Carl

[steplift20]

a plumbers tourch is what you want to use

[tsubaki]

Tapping on the steering arm bolt on location (whatever it is called that the motor arm attaches to) will deform the bolt hole, avoid that as much as possible.
First grab with a pair of Vise Grips, Channel Locks, or pipe wrench (taking care not to booger the shaft up too much) and twist and rotate the shaft (not at the steering arm connection end, it will turn freely).
The torch or a heat gun would be great if you were comfortable using it. I normally reserve that till last on stuff.
Trying everything from penetrating oil to mineral spirits to clean and lubricate the shaft and tube.
They seem to come free easier by applying pressure than whacking it with a hammer.
Finding a good way to push it out by prying with a 2x4 to a point and then incorporate a wood or metal dowel to assist going deeper into the tube would be one suggestion.
If you had the room (usually there's not) for a bottle jack, that would be great. Taking care of how much pressure you're putting on the fiberglass. If you had a (or knew someone) hydraulic ram set that would be a better setup.
Cleaning the tube needs to be aggressive, it has now swollen and needs honing, not just cleaning. I've tried brake honing tools, sand paper on drill bits, etc. One thing my father did on the last one was bought a masonry bit about whatever size the tube inside diameter is. While spraying with penetrating oil and jooging in and out with the drill was able to get it to the needed size.
And will somebody confirm or deny using ONLY marine waterproof grease in this (well all) location.

[Blue_Runner]

I've got the same problem as Carl....thanks for posting! I've greased everything and shot with penetrating oil. I may take a whack at fixing it next weekend. Or I may not. I'll report back to this thread if I work on it.