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#1
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This is closed transom from the factory, im not cutting a notch in it just so i can run a shorter set back. The bracket that i ran the 200 merc (416lbs) on was plenty of fine with trim tabs and the original location of my batteries in the back, console, and tank in the back. I moved the console forward mainly for fishing room in the back but will help with weight. A bracketed Center console is lighter then the original sea drive with the big v6 on it. the sea drive unit itself weighed 150lbs not including the motor. The way i look at it i have 5 more inches of set back then the sea drive and 70 more pounds with the f225. As for the Honda. a couple of years ago their 225 weighed 690 pounds. Thats insane. Hondas were, im not sure about now, notorious for thier weight. I remember 4 years ago the 130 weighed 500lbs. The 140 suzuki i looked into really hard, however i would like a higher top end then 38-40 mph. I cannot stand a mercury so the optimax is out of the picture. I sure wish i could afford an etec tho... 200HP 433lbs would be perfect. Can you explain the Dusky thing? i dont quite understand.
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#2
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I have a sea-drive boat, but the weight isn't as far back on a sea-drive as a bracketed boat. YAMAHA has drawn ALOT of critiscism over there stated weight as they tend to be about 50 pounds heavier than the weight they say. YAMAHA states there weight with no prop, no fuel in the engine, no oil in the engine or lower unit, just the bare engine. HONDA states the weight of there engine dressed out like it would be on the boat. The 150/175 SUZUKI weighs about the same as the 150 YAMAHA coming in under 500. DUSKY currentlu builds there 203 based off of the original V-20 and they are all bracketed boats.
You need to keep in mind the actual weight on the YAMAHA 225 is around 650 dressed out plus 75 pounds or so for the bracket, so you have 725 pounds back there with that combo. The 225 2.7L SEA-DRIVE weighed in under 625 even with power steering on it, 610 for the plane jane. So that's 115 pounds more back there. The other thing is the sea-drive kept alot more weight forward vs all on the back. Also not many V-20 CC's(if any) got the V-6 sea-drive from the factory, most got the 1.6L(465 pounds) or 2.0L V-4's(540 pounds). Also the set-back on a sea-drive is 16 inches, and the standadrd set-back on a bracket is 30. So now were talking 14 inches more set-back than origanally designed for, and add in roughly 185 pounds. Now your talking a pretty noticeable change that will seriously alter the CG. Moving your console forward was a definate plus as well as the fuel tank. Also keep in mind factory sea-drives already had the tank moved pretty far forward to begin with. Putting the batteries under the console would be mandatory, but furthur forward would help even more. My V-20 cuddy with a 1.6L sea-drive in my opinion was stern heavy, and you don't have the cuddy weight up in the bow either. Would hate to see you go through all of this and have a boat that doesn't do what you envisioned. Heres a link to the DUSKY 203 that is based off of the V-20. http://www.dusky.com/boats/dus203.html
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#3
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The dressed out weight makes a huge difference i had never considered that. And WOW that dusky looks identicle to my boat. Looks like the same mold was used. I dont even know the set back of my bracket. its shorter then 30" though. Its only a single engine bracket without a swim platform. I would like one with a swim platform but they are expensive and i doubt i could find one with the same shape as my transom. I dont want the fuel economy of another 2 stoke carbed motor. Are the yamaha hpdi 200s light enough? I heard they get just as good fuel economy as the 4 strokes?
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#4
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here is my set up
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1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!! |
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#5
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If I had a hard on for a 4 stroke I'd try and find a 140 johnzuki like randleman's with the right prop. I run a 225 2 stroke (475lbs. +/-)mounted to the transom and I think it's way over kill for the boat plus alot of extra weight in the stern.
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1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 |
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#6
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+2 i had the same setup but a little heavier you have to either bury the tabs or run fast.
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#7
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I don't have any tabs so I guess i get option #2. If I wanted to carry extra weight I'd want it to be increased fuel capacity. Extra weight means extra gas consumption and poorer handling.
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1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 |
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#8
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The set-up MJ had was roughly 380-390 engine and 115 pounds or a little less of bracket. Plus the cuddies had more weight forward to begin with. If your after some top end and a 4 stroke, the 175 SUZUKI will be your best bet for lower weight. A 25" shaft will weigh in around 485 or so dressed out since it's a 4 cylinder, plus it's said to be pretty torquey and swings a good sized prop. The 150/175 YAMAHA HPDI is said to be pretty bullet proof in the later years and didn't have the problems the bigger engines had. Not to certain on the 200's as I believe they had 2 different 200 HPDI's(small block and big block). A used 175 ETEC or 03+ DFI EVINRUDE can be had reasoneabl;y priced and is really good on fuel to boot. And they are pretty lightweight compared to the 4 strokes. Personally all of the newer engines would worry me if they weren't under warranty. FICHT's, OPTIMAX's, and HPDI's can be REALLY expensive to fix if something in the fuel injection system goes out. A 4 stroke is expensive in maintence compared to a 2 stroke, but they really aren't that bad if your fairly handy with a wrench.
I've chosen the old school route as I can buy ALOT of gas for what I save in maintence, repair costs, and initial investment. I've considered going with a FICHT to extend my range out to get to some of my remote spots, but I can't bring myself to do it as one repair even doing the work myself could get VERY costly.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#9
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to heavy you dont and wont need that much hp go with a 150 mercury sorry guy im a mercury fan
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love to fish |
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#10
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Well i am definately convinced not to buy the 225. Thats what forums like this and good people are for. I looked extremely hard to find a 175 suzuki when i couldnt find hardly any used suzukis i gave that search up. The same goes with the etec. I would like a 200 etec as they are still very light. Right now, for the right price i would go with a 150/175 suzuki, 150/175 HPDI or a f150. Did they make the johnzuki bigger then 140? I thought long and hard about the 140 but its not going to give me the torque/speed i am looking for. And im not in need of a ton of top end but being able to beat a storm home or power up the backside of 10-14ft breakers on the way back home from the shoals is a must. I dont think a 140 is going to do it.
Now i guess i shall look into posting some pics up here. MJ - I am goin to try and post a pic of my transom to see if you think yours is the same shape. Mine has a rather significant bend to it. |
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