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#1
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Evilgli,
I have been looking at those, that 2000 looks a little pricey to me. And I don't think that is the right cowling for a 2000. Found a couple for cheaper, anywhere from 2800-3900 for a 150, so I think that is the route I am going to go. As for those who bash the VRO I was given this link from the THT, interesting read... http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html -Svence
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1984 V-20 Steplift 1998 Johnson 175 Last edited by csvencer; 01-02-2009 at 12:48 PM. |
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#2
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Also one other Q. As I look at rebuilt powerheads there is always a break at the 2000 mark, as 1996-2000 150's are this much, and 2001-2004 are this much, whats the deal with that? Are certain years going to burn more gas or be less reliable? I thought they were all pretty much the same.
-Svence
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1984 V-20 Steplift 1998 Johnson 175 |
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#3
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VRO CAN be a good thing, but it is just one more thing to give trouble. Yes the human error is the BIGGEST danger involved in it, as evidenced by what happened to yours. And I am VERY leary of electrical components that have been used around saltwater for years. SYSTEMS that rely on some sort of electrical input concern me ALOT in saltwater useage. To me it is simpler to just pre-mix and know it is there. There are a few systems out there I would trust, the VRO from OMC is NOT one of them.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#4
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Quote:
I've read that article before and it's a good article. Oil injection adds lots of potential failure points. An intact properly maintained oil injection system might be very reliable. In reality the oil injection is usually not maintained and is the root cause of MANY MANY MANY engine failures. Why even chance it . . . when you can remove ALL of the potential hazards with 1 action. Simply eliminating the oil injection removes a dozens of potentially catastrophic hazards, the need to perform regular (and sometimes expense) time consuming maintenance procedures and inspections . . . when there is ZERO benefit to keep that "simple" (but not really) system operating properly. So in my uneducated opinion . . . . it seems like a NO BRAINER to yank that POS system off every two stroke CARB outboard and throw it in the trash!!! K.I.S.S. = the best outboard lesson ever taught. |
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#5
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Quote:
i know alot of people hate the VRO system, and maybe one day i will too, but i like using it now and if it fails, such is life. but i know alot of people local that are using the VRO system and there engines are still running. i think people are afraid of things they don't understand and repair. so they just remove or don't use it and feel better. but the system works and ALOT of people use it. but like it has been said, your system didn't fail, it worked fine up to the point that it ran out of oil. |
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#6
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Quote:
Recently I bought a blown 1997 Carb Merc 200hp. The oil injection screen was covered by a combination of the tin seal from the oil bottle and general crud in the tank. The clogged screen ran the pump dry and the rest is history. This is just one example. |
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#7
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You can speak for others but i understand them as do the others that have commented. They are junk in so many ways for one that you and many others using them don't know most likely the VRO on OMC runs off the gray Tach wiring so if the tach misses or is off from your regulator which is a common issue with OMC You loose oil. They are crap as i have had several that the oil injection was off due to the voltage regulator. not new to this as i currently own 6 Johnson 225's , 2 Evinrude 140's and 2 Johnson 140's not to mention the other 10 or so i've had in the past few yrs and sold. The Merc's run a plastic gear on the oil pump which breaks and will still turn slow enough to give no alarm but will run the motor lean on oil so yeah it's death for the merc then. If you run the VRO on any 2 stroke other than the late model Yamaha's then it's only time till you spend money on a rebuild that just premixing would avoid. this from Lord Skool's
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1978 V20 Cuddy w/ 225 Johnson. And Several other boat's Last edited by Skools Out; 01-03-2009 at 12:49 AM. |
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#8
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Spare, I can surely see your point about non-use contributing to auto-oiler failure...but on the other hand, many of the failures I've seen were on motors that were frequently used and well maintained...the plastic Merc gear Skools refers to above is a good example...and the 1st OMC oiler I saw go down back in the mid-eghties was a 175 hp Johnnie, well maintained and used several times a week...there are SO MANY different ways for theses systems to fail, it lead me to this rule; "if it ain't under warranty, premix the oil"...I would not buy a used motor that I could not disable the auto-oiler on...
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'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha |
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#9
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the plastic drive gears have several reasons to go out, sitting for long periods of time is probably the #1 reason. Apparently, the plastic gear sticks to the drive gear if left in place for a long tiem, the fisrt time you crank it up, it starts wearing the plastic gear, then by naot being run for a while, there isn't any lube on the gear that makes it wear more. We saw a lot of these on sport jet packages, they would get used in the spring, left alon for the reat of the season, then started again next spring, usually with some one revving the cold engine up to try and keep it running with the carbs stopped up. The next most common failure on the plastic gear was from the coupler that connects the shaft to the pump, there were about four years of prduction that the gear would swell up and stick itself, casuing the plastic gear to strip out. When I replace the plastic gear, I always replace the coupler as well. I had one guy that ran his engine hot(real hot), it was on a new mercury repower power head, it got so hot, it caused the gear to fail, his saving grace was it was still running on double oil for break in, as far as I know, that engine is still running( we changed it to premix after I told him his warranty had just expired due to abuse). It still suprises me that the after market hasn't come up with a brass replacement gear for the plastic one. The only time I will run oil injection for myself, is if the engine was recently rebuilt, and the gear was replaced, my 200 has the oil system disconected, if I ever go inot it, I might hook it back up. But there is still other reasons for the system to fail, those clear hoses that get brittle is probably the #1 reason.
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#10
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What is this VRO and premix you speak of?
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*************************************** Stay Safe! Sold - 1984 V-20 Cuddy with a 2003 Johnson 140 hp gas sippin 4-stroke. 1995 Ranger 250C with a 2015 Suzuki 300 hp 4-stroke. |
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