Engine Trouble

[THEFERMANATOR]

My question would be is why did it have zero compression? It looks rough, but not bad enough to be zero. I would have expected at least 20 or so from it, zero normally means a hole or MAJOR piston damage. I'm not sure on the EAGLE engines if you can pull a piston out without teardown, but if you could I would start off by pulling just the one piston and looking at the crank journal. The other BIG question is what other damage is there or waiting to happen? Not trying to be the bearer of bad news, just don't want to see you dump a $1K into fixing just one hole and then have it let loose on you on your first trip. At the MINUMUM you need to do a COMPLETE teardown and inspect ALL of your bearings for damage or small chips. I would expect you spend $2500 at a MINUMUM for a teardown and basic rebuild at a dealer on that engine. Most shops down here by me would rather sell you a new one than to build your old one. I know a trusted EVINRUDE dealer down here and won't give an estimate for less than $3500 on ANY V-6 to do a rebuild because you never know what you will run into once your in it.

[Monkey Butler]

Sorry for your misfortune. The guys here who know what they are talking about are a great resource and hopefully you can get out of this for the least amount of dollars or without throwing good money after bad.

When I am running my outboard I always feel like a race driver leading on the last lap. I hear every little change in sound and I hear things that nobody else does. I guess the only cure for that would be called a warrantee but with the price of new OB's that's kind of out of my reach.

I am no expert but I gotta ask the same thing as Ferm, why zero compression. My kids had a 2-stroke motorcycle that they had to use WD-40 and a running push start to get going but it still ran and had some compression but when I took the head of it looked 100 times worse than the bore on yours.

[csvencer]

I was shocked by the 0 compression as well, hence the reason I did it a couple times to make sure it didn't just stop working. At this time I am looking at getting a rebuilt powerhead, short block, for about $1900. I got one quote for just that cylinder at $1800 which made me start looking at a new block or rebuilding this one completely. A completly dressed powerhead will run me about $3200 so I think the short block may be the way to go. My only concern with that is how do I know the VRO pump isn't still messed up for that cylinder? I know it works as if it had completely died I would have had more than one cylinder get fried, but how do I ensure this won't happen again with a new block...??? I am also looking at a entirely new motor (new to me) as I have found late 90's-early 00's 150/175's for about $3500-$4500. I could then part out the johnson to recoup some of the cost. Any ideas on what I could get if I pieced it out? Thinking anywhere from $1000 to $1500 as everything from the lower unit up is good except the damn cylinder. Thoughts???

-Svence

[csvencer]

SIDEBAR-

The Towboat US guy was driving an 80's 250 sportsman and I fell in love. So maybe a whole new rig is in the works.... ;)

-Svence

[THEFERMANATOR]

I would look around a bit. You can find REALLY late model 2 stroke carb motors for under $4K in the 200/225 range. The 150/175 EAGLE motors are known as OMC's BEST engine ever, so that is a BIG reason for them holding there value so well. The only way to know for certain that you are getting oil is to ditch the VRO and pre-mix.

[csvencer]

Ferm-

EAGLE? What years are they?

-Svence

[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by csvencer

Ferm-

EAGLE? What years are they?

-Svence

The EAGLE series is what they called the 60 degree loopers. They came out in 90/91 in OMC in the 150/175, and in 95 in the V-4's. The eagle series is what you have now.